<a href="http://myplanetavino.files.wordpress.com/2007/12/1980-vintage-ports-small.jpg" title="Vintage ports Noval Grahams"><img align="right" src="http://myplanetavino.files.wordpress.com/2007/12/1980-vintage-ports-small.jpg" alt="Vintage ports Noval Grahams" /></a>Yes, wine storage conditions matter even for port!  Following is a very sad story of how critical this issue is. 

Recently we got a chance to try two 1980 vintage ports together that had been stored in very different conditions.  The difference between the two wines was a revelation to me!

We had been given a wonderful vintage port for our wedding and had been saving it (in our wine cellar) for a few months.   The Quinta do Noval Nacional 1980 had been bought at a local store, as tore that is known for excellent prices but not necessarily the best storage conditions. 

On a trip to Oporto, I was given a Grahams 1980 Vintage Port by the winery.  The wine had been kept at the winery in pristine conditions since it had been produced.

Given the stellar reputation of both wines, I was unsure which to serve first, but opted to put the Nacional second.

As we were pouring, I knew the order would have to change…the color of the Nacional was much paler, with tawny notes, while the Grahams still had a deep ruby, purple color. 

The nose confirmed it:
Nacional:  Lovely cherry, floral nose, delicate with some volatile acidity.  Medium intensity.  Simple, but very attractive and appealing.
Grahams:  Spicy, intense nose, with curry and chocolate, and lots of blackberry and blueberry fruit.  Not as attractive as the Nacional initially, but more impressive.

Finally we tasted the wines:
Nacional:  Elegant, but light, raisiny notes, cherry fruit.  Long finish, with hay notes.  With air more cherry fruit comes out…but the impression remains of fading softness.
Grahams:  Intense mouth, with layers if chocolate, leather, cedar and black fruit.  The alcohol stands out a little.  Very long, sweet, fruity finish.  Remarkably youthful.

To conclude:
Nacional:  In some ways more drinkable, elegant and soft, but very evolved and on the decline already…showing signs of oxidation.
Grahams:  never will be as elegant as the Nacional…still a bit of a brute, but fantastic complexity in the mouth…definitely much more life to come for it. 

Both wines were excellent, but the Nacional was definitely too far along in it's life span for a 1980….and was quite a let down after my huge expectations.   Though 1980 is not considered quite on a par with other top vintages, the tasting notes I have read from others on this vintage shows this Nacional was definitely mistreated during its long storage.  The wine store our friends bought it from is known for high turn-over and excellent prices on recent vintage, but I am always wary of buying older vintages there.  Their storage area is not always maintained at the proper temperature and the store front has often been without proper air conditioning during the hot Madrid summer months. 

Though port may be more robust than some wines, it too is vulnerable to heat!    So if your are buying older vintages for your Christmas drinking....source them carefully!
  