[caption id="attachment_2611" align="aligncenter" width="500" caption="Djemaa el-Fna at Dusk"]<a href="http://www.karolinkabulgaria.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/img_3136.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-2611" title="Djemaa el-Fna at Dusk" src="http://www.karolinkabulgaria.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/img_3136.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="333" /></a>[/caption]

The food stalls on the Djemaa el-Fna in Marrakesh are incredible. They are incredibly overwhelming, incredibly lively, incredibly questionable and incredibly tasty.  They are in a word: an experience.

[caption id="attachment_2603" align="aligncenter" width="500" caption="The Guys at the Grill and Meat "]<a href="http://www.karolinkabulgaria.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/img_3167.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-2603" title="The Guys at the Grill and raw meat " src="http://www.karolinkabulgaria.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/img_3167.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="333" /></a>[/caption]

[caption id="attachment_2604" align="aligncenter" width="500" caption="Me and the Guys "]<a href="http://www.karolinkabulgaria.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/img_3177.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-2604" title="Me and the Guys " src="http://www.karolinkabulgaria.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/img_3177.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="333" /></a>[/caption]

The stalls go up each day on the square in the late afternoon and by dusk they are up and running. By 11 o'clock the cooking is slowing down and midnight, the square is emptying.  It's a production.  <!--more-->One that seems to run pretty seamlessly.  And in the morning there's no sign of the carts, the commotion or cooking from the night before. There are just the fresh-squeezed orange juice stands.<a href="http://www.karolinkabulgaria.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/img_3478.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-2605" title="Me at another Stall " src="http://www.karolinkabulgaria.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/img_3478.jpg" alt="Me at Stall 117" width="500" height="333" /></a>

It's also a show and there are plenty of actors. From the guys pushing their stands with clever sayings, laminated menus and desperate pleas to the waiters and the cooks. These guys are all having a good time. They clearly like what they do.

[caption id="attachment_2606" align="aligncenter" width="500" caption="A. Loves her Bread"]<a href="http://www.karolinkabulgaria.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/img_3470.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-2606" title="A. Loves her Bread" src="http://www.karolinkabulgaria.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/img_3470.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="333" /></a>[/caption]

They talk a good talk and they make pretty tasty food.  The biggest problem is just trying to pick a stall to eat at. Luckily these guys are here to push their stalls and sing refrain that you'll hear over and over throughout the square at dinner time: all the food's the same--they're just competition.  If this doesn't work they'll try to woo you with things like: you're so skinny you need to eat, look locals eat here, nice ass (admittedly, that one didn't really work at well) and we've got free Berber whiskey... ahem... mint tea.

[caption id="attachment_2607" align="aligncenter" width="500" caption="Food to Grill "]<a href="http://www.karolinkabulgaria.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/img_3169.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-2607" title="Food to Grill " src="http://www.karolinkabulgaria.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/img_3169.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="333" /></a>[/caption]

The first night eating out we were a little worried about cleanliness and made sure to order food we knew would be well cooked and washed it down with Fanta. After making it through night one, we couldn't be stopped the following two nights.  The owners of our Riad cautioned us about sea food, fresh veggies and eggs but really that's no fun. So we ate and ate. Only we didn't eat sheep's head--that was too much. But maybe I should have (and yes, I realize that's a lot easier to say miles and miles away from the grilled sheep's head).

[caption id="attachment_2610" align="aligncenter" width="500" caption="Djemaa el-Fna at Night "]<a href="http://www.karolinkabulgaria.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/img_3187.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-2610" title="Djemaa el-Fna at Night " src="http://www.karolinkabulgaria.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/img_3187.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="333" /></a>[/caption]

I will say, if you go to dinner too late at night there are a lot of Moroccan children selling tissues and asking for food.  Like if you eat it and your hands or your fork aren't in it, then there are poor Moroccan children eye-level to the table with parents hovering in the background miming for your food.  Have 1/4 of your Fanta left? They'll ask for it--maybe they'll even have their hands on it. This was a bit much for me at first.

[caption id="attachment_2614" align="aligncenter" width="500" caption="Stalls on the Square "]<a href="http://www.karolinkabulgaria.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/img_3147.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-2614" title="Stalls on the Square " src="http://www.karolinkabulgaria.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/img_3147.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="333" /></a>[/caption]

Then I realized, Carolyn, you're not going to eat this. So when an older woman asked for the bones of my chicken, I signaled that she could have it. Before I knew it she had the bones wrapped up in part of the paper tablecloth and in her hands. She was quick. She also ended up with the fish bones from the fried fish of some of the guys working at the stand. At this point, I was over saying no to kids so when a toddler came up dirty face and fingers miming for the leftover veggies and coscos I gave him the go ahead. It seemed the least I could do. He ate coscos by the handful. He also asked for my Fanta. I kept that.