@ Stefan: Oh no. For a second time in one hour I've made a mistake in my blog post.  Apparently I don't know how to spell in Bulgarian either.  The щ strikes again. For those of you who don't speak Bulgarian is letter sounds like "sht" all at once and it trips me up all the time.  That and the я which makes a "ya" sound.  I guess that means that I've mis-transliterated Koprivstitsa in my whole post... it should probably be Koprivshtitsa. (But I did get the ц sound right which is a "ts" like in tsar!)