Great list - many thanks!  Here's another which I enjoyed...
"The Good Balkans: Adventure Between Old and New Bulgaria" - By Jack Hamilton
(After reading, I loaded this as a review on Amazon's UK site: "Bulgaria is a beautiful country, and gets excellent guidebook coverage. But if you yearn to get behind the scenes there's surprisingly little. So it has been a big treat to read The Good Balkans. Jack Hamilton has lived here through interesting years, seems fearless in his explorations, and is an entertaining and engaging writer. I loved the book, and learned a lot.")