I'd definitely run a tap down the bolt holes in the block, as any crud will affect the torque, same with cleaning the bolt threads up. I've been helping a friend with an 88 diesel, and we snapped a bolt off because of dirty threads. He had gotten a replacement block, and it was supposedly checked out and ready to go. Apparently that didn't include cleaning the bolt holes. We took the head off and cleaned all the holes and replaced the broken bolt, and it went much better.

The shop manual shows the correct torque sequence, it basically starts in the middle and works its way out in a circle. I'd also recommend tightening the bolts in 4 steps. Just take the maximum torque and divide it by 4, and then torque the whole thing in the pattern with the lowest value, then add then next 1/4 and re-torque the whole head, and so on until to the max. We always torqued to the recommended value, then ran the engine for a half hour or so, and let the motor cool down. We then re-torque the head to the recommend value again, and usually you'll get a little more on them as everything expanded when it was heated up, crushed the gasket a little more, and then when it cooled, loosened slightly. Don't forget that the bolt with the oil hole has a lower torque value than the rest.

We never used any sealants on the head gaskets. Some people do, but I always say put them on dry. The head gasket will have the proper sealing materials where they are needed.

The bolts did not use any washers, flat or lock.

Any other questions, just ask.