Kirk:

Cumberland is south of I-80 about 10 miles and east of highway 71 about 6 miles.

I have finished the 22-40 restoration, the last part went on about a week ago.  I have had it just about finished for the last year but have not been able to find that seat bracket until now.  We took it to the Cornbelt Oliver Collectors summer show at Marshalltown last weekend and I recieved a lot of positive comments from some seasoned Hart Parr collectors on the quality of my restoration.  I have noticed however that there is a bit of controversy over the original color.  

When I started on this project in the fall of 2006 we looked up the paint code that was listed on the web and ordered a pint to see what it looked like.  I am not sure of the code without finding the can but it was a napa paint code for the pre 1930 Hart Parrs, after spraying a small test panel I decided that there is no way in the world that this tractor was ever that shade of green, the spray out was very dark and only even looks like green outside in the sunlight, in the shop you would swear it was closer to black than green.  I came up with my own paint code for PPG paint after spending hours looking at paint chips held up to the back side of a bracket and in the end I decided that the color I picked out looks great on a overcast day but in direct sunlight I think its a bit light.  I keep telling myself not to be to be to nit picky about the color but its hard to think that way because I do paint and collision repair.  I am however very happy with the red that I picked for the wheels, L.O.L.

If your tractor has original paint, even as poor as you think it might look, it is the real deal original.  If you decide to restore it you have to think long and hard about the decision because you can paint it, you'r children can paint it in another 30 years and so on, but you can never go back to a true original like what you have right now.  It can always be restored but no one can make an original.  

I would guess that you have a operators manual, but if not you can get a copy from the Floyd County Museum in Charles City where the tractors were built.  Mary Ann Townsend is the director there and she can also set you up with a parts book for your tractor,  the ph.# 1-641-228-1099 or <!-- w --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.floydcountymuseum.org">www.floydcountymuseum.org</a><!-- w --> 
the parts book is great because if there is anything that is missing from the tractor, like the air intake, you can look it up in the parts book to get the part # and it will also tell you the serial # runs it should be used on.  You can then call up the museum and get a copy of the original blueprint for that part and make it from scratch.  There are some things that they can't come up with but 9 out of 10 I would guess, truely amazing what they have there in the files. 

The one thing that should be checked if you haven't is the condition of the governor weights, pins, and gear.  Take the top cover off and pry the collor over to get the spring tension off the weights and see how much wear is in the joint where the weight is attached to the gear, also make sure that the cotter pins are in good shape.  If a weight should come loose it will drop into the crank case and will likely break the case, front cover, and a piston as it is knocked around by the crankshaft.

I am planning to take the 40 to Irwin for the show later this year, might see you there, you could bring you'r 18-36.  Later!