<p>It’s amazing to think how much Venice has improved in terms of food over the past decade. Once it was hard even to get a decent pizza here. Now things are so much better, provided you avoid the tourist traps around San Marco and the Rialto.</p>
<p>Here are a few gems from my latest trip to the lagoon. First, a wonderful place for coffee and beautiful home made pastries. Bar Pasticceria Toletta (Dorsoduro 1192, tel 041 5227451) is in Sacco de la Toletta, a narrow alley running from San Barnaba to Zattere (you can get exact locations on Google Maps). Fantastic and inexpensive sweets and beautiful coffee, open seven days a week.</p>
<p>Al Timon (Cannareggio 2754) is in Cannareggio where the popular Fondamenta de la Misericordia becomes the Fondamenta degli Ormesini. There are a few tables by the canal, beautiful cicchetti (Venetian tapas) of bacala and other specialities at one euro a pop and a decent and very inexpensive wine list. Friendly local service and definitely a place for anyone looking to conserve the pennies.</p>
<p>Osteria Enoteca Ai Artisti (closed Sundays) is in Fondamenta della Toletta, just on the San Barnaba side of the pasticceria above. It’s a smart, ambitious enoteca with a great wine list, a daily menu of fish, meat and salad, and a few canal side tables. Somewhat cramped and the service can be a touch erratic but very congenial. I’d book a table if you want to eat though - tel 041 5238944.</p>
<p>In the same area you’ll find one of the best pizzerias in Venice, Ai Sportivi, back on form after a bad patch. It’s in the big square of Campo San Margherita, tel 041 5211598) and serves late for Venice, up to 11 pm. A few years ago the staff seemed to become entirely east European. Today they are Indian I suspect but the service is efficient and friendly and the pizzas, thin, as in Rome, are superb, with an enormous range including seasonal specialities.</p>
<p>Around the corner, in Rio Tera Canal, on the way to San Barnaba, you’ll find the Sardinian restaurant l’Incontro (tel 041 5222404m closed Monday and Tuesday lunchtimes). This has a lunchtime special of two dishes for 20 euros, a good way to try Sardinian cuisine. We had some interesting pasta dishes - trofie with artichokes and an orange flavoured ravioli dish - followed by stinco, a whacking great smoked ham shank, and roast suckling pig. The pig was just out of the oven and could have done with a bit more cooking I suspect but it was still worthwhile.</p>
<p>Finally, for the blowout, I heartily recommend the hotel restaurant of <a href="http://www.aglialboretti.com/" target="_blank">Agli Alboretti</a>, which is just round the corner from the Accademmia. This has a daily changing menu that uses local ingredients but in unusual ways - turbot with artichoke cream, swordfish with lime and ginger, and unusual game dishes. You’d need to be very hungry to manage antipasti, primo, secondo and some fantastic dolci too. The wine list is excellent as well. But with three courses expect to pay around 120 euros for too - well worth it for an elegant dining room with charming service, an oasis from the tourist bustle outside.</p>