Teak decks, covering boards, and coaming boards represent a large investment, both in terms of time and money. Amazingly, a stroll down any dock will reveal unkept and neglected teak. On most production sport boats, teak presents a contrast against the bleach white silhouette, while making the boat stand out in a fleet.

Teak maintenance does not have to be a black science. Rather, teak maintenance takes much less effort than commonly believed, so long as you start with a fresh, clean, well-sanded surface. Begin by taping off all adjoining painted surfaces and removing deck hardware and rod holders. For surfaces with deep ridges, usually resulting from improper maintenance; I begin with 60 grit sandpaper on an orbital sander. Be careful not to get overly aggressive, that’s some really expensive wood you’re removing! With the 60 grit paper the goal is to remove any ridges and leave an evenly flat surface. Following 60 grit, move on to 120 grit. This grade sandpaper is for smoothing, primarily used to decks. For covering boards and coaming boards I will usually go one step farther and wet sand with 200 grit wet paper. In order to avoid flat spotting rolled corners and edges, always hand sand these areas. 

Once you have achieved a fresh sanded surface, maintenance is very easy and when performed properly should keep sanding intervals at twelve to eighteen months, depending on frequency of use and exposure. For the first few months clean teak with only soap and water using a soft brush (blue brush head, NEVER white), though I prefer to use white 3M pads (which are the least abrasive). Always brush across the grain using very light pressure. Scrubbing with the grain and using a stiff bristle brush will remove the soft grain from the wood, creating ridges. My routine for soaping involves one part sudsy ammonia to three parts water mixed with a healthy squirt of dawn dish detergent. At four to six week intervals, I follow the soap wash with a teak brightener, thoroughly rinsing the soap prior to use. When using teak brightener, a little goes a long way! Both parts of two-part teak cleaners should only be used for heavily soiled decks. When using two-part teak cleaner, be conscious to keep painted surfaces, gel coat, aluminum, and chrome plated surfaces wet. You may want to tape around these areas to avoid splash and splatter. Keeping these areas wet can be especially difficult during hot weather and bright daylight. I find this to be a great job for rainy days. Though you may not use a 3M pad for routine washes, I suggest always using one with two-part cleaners. Unless you enjoy having hands and feet that resemble a leper, always use quality rubber gloves and boots, and avoid eye contact when applying two-part cleaners. 
	
Should mildew form on teak, the addition of bleach in place of sudsy ammonia in your wash bucket should eliminate the problem. Large amounts of mildew may require the use of an industrial strength cleaner such as Mold-Away. This maintenance regime should keep teak looking “show quality”.
