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INSERT INTO `bb_posts` VALUES (1,1,1,1,'<p>First Post!  w00t.\n</p>\n','2009-11-04 23:34:34','67.248.19.168',1,1),(2,1,2,5,'<p>Hello droners,<br />\nWe have lots and lots of info to add to the forum. It will take some time but we will be consistently uploading build documentation, tips and tricks, modification schematics and more. Check back often for new content.\n</p>\n','2009-11-05 01:26:22','67.248.19.168',0,1),(3,1,2,4,'<p>Here you can discuss topics related to building your Drone Lab, custom circuit design and modification, audio samples, or anything else you want! This forum will be the primary location to find Drone Lab documentation as well, including build instructions, which are available as either a power point presentation or a PDF document. If you have any questions, feel free to start a topic of your own!\n</p>\n','2009-11-05 01:49:42','24.92.54.69',0,2),(4,1,3,4,'<p>teste testets\n</p>\n','2009-11-19 20:01:24','24.92.54.69',1,1),(5,5,4,6,'<p>A friendly ghost just appeared on my doorstep!</p>\n<p>So now what?\n</p>\n','2009-11-19 20:09:57','98.216.153.236',0,1),(6,2,5,4,'<p>To reduce material waste, we have provided no hard copy of build instructions with the kits or board orders. In order to properly assemble or troubleshoot your Drone Lab, it is highly recommended that you follow along with these step-by-step build diagrams. The diagrams are available as either a Microsoft Office Power Point Presentation, or as a PDF. Right click the desired link below and select \"save file\" to save it to your hard drive.</p>\n<p>For V2.0 Boards (check the back of the board):<br />\n<a href=\"http://casperelectronics.com/ghostwizard/public_files/Drone_Build_Diagramsv4.ppt\">Build Diagrams PowerPoint V2.0</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"http://casperelectronics.com/ghostwizard/public_files/Drone_Build_Diagramsv4.pdf\">Build Diagrams PDF V2.0</a></p>\n<p>For V2.1 Boards:<br />\n<a href=\"http://casperelectronics.com/ghostwizard/public_files/Drone_Build_Diagramsv5.ppt\">Build Diagrams PowerPoint V2.1</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"http://casperelectronics.com/ghostwizard/public_files/Drone_Build_Diagramsv5.pdf\">Build Diagrams PDF V2.1</a></p>\n<p>Included in the file are a number of important tips or suggestions that if followed, will greatly aid in the successful construction of your Drone Lab. Good Luck and have fun building!\n</p>\n','2009-11-19 20:29:11','24.92.54.69',0,1),(7,5,4,4,'<p>First version of construction documentation is up! Updated version of documents will be available later tonight with more tips and build notes including pictures. Glad it got there so fast!\n</p>\n','2009-11-19 20:39:31','24.92.54.69',0,2),(8,5,4,6,'<p>Rawk!\n</p>\n','2009-11-19 21:30:01','98.216.153.236',0,3),(9,5,4,4,'<p>Updated Assembly Documentation!\n</p>\n','2009-11-20 04:46:46','24.92.54.69',0,4),(10,5,4,6,'<p>Sweet! The resistor color codes in there make it sooo much easier.\n</p>\n','2009-11-20 13:58:23','98.216.153.236',0,5),(11,5,4,6,'<p>BTW, love the avatars!\n</p>\n','2009-11-20 13:58:57','98.216.153.236',0,6),(12,5,4,7,'<p>Hey all!</p>\n<p>Just got my board in the mail, and a hefty-duty board it is. Nice job guys! Looking forward to heating up my iron.</p>\n<p>Will there be an .ai file posted of the enclosure soon?\n</p>\n','2009-11-20 21:48:24','69.198.133.234',0,7),(13,5,4,5,'<p>Clarke68. I posted the .ai file here:<br />\nhttp://casperelectronics.com/drone-lab-housing\n</p>\n','2009-11-20 22:09:16','193.75.52.220',0,8),(14,5,4,8,'<p>Board and parts received in the mail today! Now begins the hot, hot soldering...\n</p>\n','2009-11-21 00:07:38','74.140.128.125',0,9),(15,2,5,9,'<p>The download was a little slow for me, so I have mirrored the PDF <a href=\"http://freepeter.com/dl/Drone_Build_Diagrams.pdf\">here.</a></p>\n<p>-fred\n</p>\n','2009-11-21 01:22:48','199.201.145.58',1,2),(16,2,6,10,'<p>up and running, but voice 3 is out.  i can hear the timing click from the trem come through, but no osc.  working my way through it!</p>\n<p>what i do have up sounds great, though.\n</p>\n','2009-11-21 01:33:16','67.170.80.212',0,1),(17,2,5,8,'<p>Download was a little slow for me, too.</p>\n<p>Thanks for the mirrored link!</p>\n<p>Also, on page 16 of the PDF, the 330K resistor needs to be depicted as [Orange, Orange, Yellow, Gold] and not as [Brown, Black, Yellow, Gold] (which is 100K), FYI...</p>\n<p>-Jason\n</p>\n','2009-11-21 02:30:10','74.140.128.125',1,3),(18,2,5,8,'<p>Same thing on P. 17. 470K should be [Yellow, Violet, Yellow, Gold] and not [Brown, Black, Yellow, Gold].\n</p>\n','2009-11-21 02:39:33','74.140.128.125',1,3),(19,2,6,10,'<p>And...done!  Cold solder joint at pin 8 of the ic socket for the 40106...fixed it up, and voice 3 is alive.  This has been one of the fastest, most straightforward builds for me ever.  Thanks for the great kit and instructions.</p>\n<p>-aj\n</p>\n','2009-11-21 02:44:52','67.170.80.212',0,2),(20,2,5,9,'<p>Yea I just got to page 16 and 17, color codes are off.\n</p>\n','2009-11-21 03:06:29','199.201.145.58',1,3),(21,2,5,4,'<p>Ha, thanks for noticing, I\'ll update it as soon as I get to a computer.</p>\n<p>(on a bus)\n</p>\n','2009-11-21 03:26:24','173.125.55.245',1,4),(22,2,6,4,'<p>Congratulations! Glad it\'s working and glad you had you had an easy time!\n</p>\n','2009-11-21 03:28:46','173.124.167.142',0,3),(23,2,5,11,'<p>Got mine in the mail today - very excited to get soldering. Going through the whole guide and I got to the hardware page (58) and need a little clarification. The leftmost box is the stuff _everyone_ should get right? I didn\'t get any screws, washers, or feet. If it is an omission I\'ll send an email over.\n</p>\n','2009-11-21 03:29:22','67.203.141.65',0,2),(24,4,7,9,'<p>Photo set on Flickr, updating as I go along.</p>\n<p><a href=\"http://www.flickr.com/photos/fredowsley/sets/72157622720780243/\">http://www.flickr.com/photos/fredowsley/sets/72157622720780243/</a>\n</p>\n','2009-11-21 03:32:02','199.201.145.58',0,1),(25,2,5,8,'<p>@chris: NP. You\'ve done a lot of hard work putting this project together! The documentation here is some of the most straightforward and complete I\'ve seen in a while for DIY kits. Keep up the good work!\n</p>\n','2009-11-21 04:35:46','74.140.128.125',0,3),(26,1,8,12,'<p>I received my board today.  Classy!  I can\'t wait to get started, but I could really use the Mouser parts list so I can purchase matching switches, pots and knobs.  I figured out the switch on my own, Mouser No. 10SL005, but the numbers for the pots and knobs would be great...\n</p>\n','2009-11-21 04:47:04','173.64.108.129',0,1),(27,4,9,10,'<p>here\'s a blurry pic of two modded gakken sx150s running into my newly completed dronelab. they are definitely complimentary devices. working on mutual triggering between them...    </p>\n<p>http://www.sonicmunitions.com/picture_library/gakdrone.JPG\n</p>\n','2009-11-21 05:14:12','67.170.80.212',0,1),(28,4,9,12,'<p>Your link doesn\'t seem to be working.\n</p>\n','2009-11-21 05:16:57','173.64.108.129',0,2),(29,4,9,10,'<p>fixed!\n</p>\n','2009-11-21 05:43:31','67.170.80.212',0,3),(30,2,6,5,'<p>Cathartech,<br />\nThat\'s great news! I\'m glad to hear that you are done so fast and that it all works!<br />\nAnd I\'m glad you found the kit so easy to assemble. We put TONS of work into making this kit easy to build so that people could spend less time building and more time playing.<br />\nMake sure to post some recordings and pictures on the showcase forum.\n</p>\n','2009-11-21 06:56:55','193.75.52.220',0,4),(31,3,10,5,'<p>I\'ve got a long list of mods I\'m hoping to post schematics for. Here are some of them:<br />\n-Audio input through tremolo effect. This would disable OSC 4 and allow you to patch the external input through OSC 4\'s tremolo.</p>\n<p>-BPF expression pedal input. The BPF is basically a wah wah effect. By adding an expression pedal you would have a full blown wah wah pedal.</p>\n<p>-Modular patchbay. There are a bunch of break out points on the board which allow you to grab audio signals at different points. These can be sent to a patch bay if desired. One of the easiest mods would be to add individual OSC outputs.</p>\n<p>-OSC cross modulation. Very easy mod, but also potentially noisy. More on that later.</p>\n<p>-Filter LFO. Automated filter modulation. Unfortunately not a super easy effect to add, but will be a cool feature.</p>\n<p>ADD YOUR IDEAS AND SCHEMATICS TO THE FORUM!\n</p>\n','2009-11-21 07:12:29','193.75.52.220',0,1),(32,2,11,5,'<p>Make sure you observe necessary component polarity! Putting a component in backwards or in the wrong location can damage the component, and removing it can be a BIG hassle.</p>\n<p>Resistors= NON POLARIZED. These can go in either way.</p>\n<p>Capacitors= all of the small yellow and blue caps are NON polarized. The Black cylindrical caps are polarized. Make sure the LONG leg goes through the SQUARE hole.</p>\n<p>LEDs = POLARIZED.  These are opposite from the caps. Make sure the LONG leg goes through the ROUND hole.</p>\n<p>TRANSISTORS = POLARIZED. Make sure the flat side of the transistor lines up with the flat side of the transistor symbol on the circuit board. Carefully read the part number and place it correctly. Removing transistors is a HUGE PAIN and they are easy to break, so take your time!</p>\n<p>Diodes = POLARIZED. Make sure the line on the diode matches the line on the diode symbol on the board.</p>\n<p>ICs = POLARIZED.<br />\nInstall the IC sockets first and then put the ICs in the sockets.<br />\nThere is an indent on the side of the IC, socket and IC symbol that indicates the proper orientation. Make sure these are consistent from board to socket to IC.<br />\nPlugging the ICs can be tricky. Make sure you don\'t bend over any of the legs.<br />\nIf you have to remove the IC DON\'T pull it out with your hands. Use a flat head screw driver and slide it all the way under the IC then carefully pry it out.\n</p>\n','2009-11-21 07:24:19','193.75.52.220',0,1),(33,2,12,10,'<p>i\'d like to get more info on the triggering section.  right now, i am running a recording of the trigger out from my pc into an amp with its gain and vol cranked to 10, and then running that out to the trigger in.  i see the trem lights beat in time (the master clock led and the four voice leds), bt they\'re significantly dimmer than if i am using the internal trem. i also hear the pulses when i have trem on and inv in the lower positions on the channels.  </p>\n<p>is it possible my in trigger signal is still too weak?  or do i have another bug i need to track down?  i guess i don\'t fully nderstand the expected beahvor...</p>\n<p>thanks\n</p>\n','2009-11-21 07:34:32','67.170.80.212',0,1),(34,2,13,5,'<p>There are a few small typos in the assembly document that will be fixed as soon as possible.<br />\nPage 16. Resistor image color code should be orange-orange-yellow.</p>\n<p>Page 17. Resistor image color code should be yellow-purple-yellow. </p>\n<p>Page 58. There are two hardware kits. \"Kit Hardware\" does not come with ALL kits. \"Kit Hardware\" comes with all NON HOUSING parts kits. \"Housing Hardware\" comes with all parts kits that include a housing.\n</p>\n','2009-11-21 07:34:59','193.75.52.220',1,1),(35,2,12,5,'<p>Try running the audio out from your amp through a capacitor. Try a .1uF.\n</p>\n','2009-11-21 07:41:47','193.75.52.220',1,2),(36,2,5,9,'<p>chris: thanks for a very solid kit! The directions were great and the Drone Lab sounds awesome.\n</p>\n','2009-11-21 07:43:09','199.201.145.58',0,4),(37,2,14,5,'<p>The most important step in assembling a kit is soldering. If any ONE solder joint is flawed it can result in intermittent functionality and frustration.<br />\nSoldering is a skill. Don\'t expect it to be easy right away. It takes time and practice. There are lots of good soldering tutorials online. I HIGHLY recommend you read through one or two before you get started. </p>\n<p>Using a good iron makes an enormous difference. I used $10 radio shack irons for years and finally bought a $150 Weller brand soldering station a few years ago. I just wish I had gotten it sooner. It has made my life so much easier!!!</p>\n<p>I understand that not everyone wants to pay $150 for a soldering iron. Using a cheap iron makes things much more difficult, but there are a few steps you can take to make it  easier.</p>\n<p>One of the BIGGEST problems with using a cheap iron is that the tip gets dirty and doesn\'t heat evenly. Keeping the tip clean will make even a piece of junk iron easy to use.</p>\n<p>-Use tip tinner. This is a little container of compressed, powdered solder and flux. It cleans and tins the tip of your iron.<br />\nhttp://www.all-spec.com/products/51303199.html</p>\n<p>-Use a tip polishing bar.<br />\nThis is a great product. Use it on your iron BEFORE you start soldering while the iron is still cold.  It removes all the grime, grease and oxidized crap from your iron.<br />\nhttp://www.all-spec.com/products/WPB1.html</p>\n<p>-Keep the tip of your iron clean while soldering. I use a damp sponge to wipe off excess solder and clean the tip. Some people prefer wire sponges.<br />\nhttp://www.all-spec.com/products/599-029.html</p>\n<p>-Use fine, flux core solder. Lead free is \"healthier\" but harder to use.<br />\nI use Kester brand .031\" flux core solder. 63% tin 37% lead. Other kinds will work but this stuff is great.<br />\nhttp://www.all-spec.com/products/KW24525.html</p>\n<p>For more info on the tools I use in my shop go here:<br />\nhttp://casperelectronics.com/finished-pieces/circuit-bending-tutorial/tools/\n</p>\n','2009-11-21 08:00:11','193.75.52.220',0,1),(38,2,5,5,'<p>Fred:<br />\nGlad to hear that you got the drone lab working! I\'m excited to see your finished build log.\n</p>\n','2009-11-21 08:02:49','193.75.52.220',0,5),(39,3,10,14,'<p>Yeah !! I think that our pcbs are someher between the states and europe, maybe in a ship or something else.. Well, i\'ll be happy to see them in my mailbox...</p>\n<p>I would also be really intersted in your lfo\'s mod ! Even if it\"s a more difficult mod.. And don\"t care for noises !</p>\n<p>Thanks for helping us to make our drone lab better !\n</p>\n','2009-11-21 08:07:17','82.67.25.179',0,2),(40,1,8,5,'<p>Hey bsom.<br />\nAll of the part #s are posted here:<br />\nhttp://casperelectronics.com/drone-lab-parts/\n</p>\n','2009-11-21 11:52:43','213.187.177.50',0,2),(41,1,8,5,'<p>Here\'s the <a href=\"http://www.casperelectronics.com/images/finishedpieces/droner/V2/kit/drone_partslist-numbers.xls.zip\">excel document</a> with all of the distributor numbers.\n</p>\n','2009-11-21 12:14:43','213.187.177.50',0,3),(42,1,8,12,'<p>Thank you sooo much!\n</p>\n','2009-11-21 15:26:54','173.64.108.129',0,4),(43,4,7,4,'<p>Hey great building and droning! Thanks for getting this up online so fast!\n</p>\n','2009-11-21 16:41:22','96.237.251.38',0,2),(44,4,9,4,'<p>Very cool! I think I\'ll have to try this combination myself!\n</p>\n','2009-11-21 16:42:57','96.237.251.38',0,4),(45,2,13,15,'<p>Also for consistency sake 10k resistor #\'s not shown on pdf.\n</p>\n','2009-11-21 17:00:19','70.106.222.191',1,1),(46,2,5,15,'<p>The download took me about 1 hour, and I had to keep re-refreshing it to get it to work, not sure what was going on there. Thanks for the mirror could have used it earlier yesterday as I looked for one.\n</p>\n','2009-11-21 17:02:05','70.106.222.191',1,7),(47,2,5,4,'<p>Stephen:</p>\n<p>Did you order a kit, a kit with enclosure, or just a board? If you ordered a kit you should have received hardware for it, boards do not ship with hardware.\n</p>\n','2009-11-21 17:02:23','96.237.251.38',0,6),(48,2,5,11,'<p>Hey Chris,</p>\n<p>I got a whole parts Kit but not the enclosure, so I guess I am actually missing the short hardware list.</p>\n<p>Working through the rest of the build, in the early stages, and really appreciate the care you all put into this. The board itself is fantastic - really nice quality.\n</p>\n','2009-11-22 07:58:30','67.203.141.65',0,7),(49,3,10,11,'<p>Casper,</p>\n<p>Really excited about the additions that will keep this project going for a long time. I had emailed you about the input -&gt; trem a while back, thanks for following up!\n</p>\n','2009-11-22 08:03:38','67.203.141.65',0,3),(50,3,10,5,'<p>@Stephen,<br />\nI\'m thinking about adding the \"input to tremolo 4 feature\" as a built in feature on future models. You could use a switch to determine whether oscillator 4 or the external input would be fed through tremolo 4. It\'s an easy feature to add even on the current model.\n</p>\n','2009-11-22 09:13:03','193.75.52.220',0,4),(51,6,15,5,'<p>For info on operation of the drone lab and steps for making your first drone, go to:<br />\nhttp://casperelectronics.com/drone-lab-operation/\n</p>\n','2009-11-22 12:05:29','193.75.52.220',0,1),(52,2,12,5,'<p>hey cathartech,<br />\nI\'m pretty sure that the problem is that you are trying to trigger the clock with an AC audio signal. What you need to do is find a way to convert the audio signal into a steady, non-fluctuating DC. I think that your problem can be solved with a capacitor and a resistor. When I get back to my studio in a few days I will test it out.<br />\nYour input signal should be connected to ground through a capacitor, maybe .01uF then it has to pass through a resistor. 100ohms? I\'ll have to test the values. If the values are set right it should work. I\'ll have it figured out in a few days.\n</p>\n','2009-11-22 14:08:20','193.75.52.220',0,2),(53,6,15,18,'<p>I built mine yesterday, it sounds great! I\'m getting a little weird intermittent interference but I think it\'s just my cable. Thanks for the great instructions!\n</p>\n','2009-11-22 15:03:59','64.131.187.217',0,2),(54,4,9,6,'<p>I\'d be curious to hear what this sounds like.\n</p>\n','2009-11-22 15:51:51','98.216.153.236',0,5),(55,1,16,19,'<p>I could figure it out from the circuit board and a continuity tester, but I guess you probably have it around -- I\'d appreciate it, thanks!\n</p>\n','2009-11-22 16:05:37','98.110.160.44',0,1),(56,2,5,4,'<p>Stephen: Thank you and your welcome! Sorry the hardware kit was omitted, that is quite accidental. I will mail you out a bag of hardware as soon as I can.\n</p>\n','2009-11-22 19:04:06','68.116.170.239',0,8),(57,1,17,20,'<p>konnichiwa!<br />\nI live in Japan and I am a Japanese<br />\nI made a payment on 15th, but when does the article arrive? </p>\n<p>Thank you\n</p>\n','2009-11-22 19:13:13','59.140.11.41',0,1),(58,1,16,4,'<p>Here is a temporary link to this file, which is now out-dated.  The problem we were encountering was due to current flowing from the battery through the output to ground on the LM7809 when the switch was in the off position. A diode going from the output of the LM7809 to the Positive terminal of the battery would solve this.\n</p>\n','2009-11-22 19:32:21','68.116.170.239',0,2),(59,1,17,4,'<p>Courbet:</p>\n<p>I believe we received your payment, but your paypal info was in Japanese, and I can\'t process it! Please email me your mailing address in English, chris@electromagics.com. Thanks!\n</p>\n','2009-11-22 19:50:24','68.116.170.239',0,2),(60,4,18,15,'<p>http://www.tcmaker.org/?p=665\n</p>\n','2009-11-23 01:03:41','64.241.37.140',0,1),(61,2,19,5,'<p>All of the part #s are posted here:<br />\nhttp://casperelectronics.com/drone-lab-parts/<br />\nor you can download the <a href=\"http://www.casperelectronics.com/images/finishedpieces/droner/V2/kit/drone_partslist-numbers.xls.zip\">excel document</a>.\n</p>\n','2009-11-23 06:30:34','193.75.52.220',0,1),(62,4,9,10,'<p>here\'s a recording of the two sx150s &gt; dronelab &gt; looping pedal &gt; boss rv4 verb/delay &gt; chan 2 of a roland streetcube.  into chan 1 of the streetcube, i ran a microkorg playing a single arped low frequency pulsing (which you hear at the beginning).  everything else is the dronelab and sx150s as far as sound sources are concerned...</p>\n<p>http://www.sonicmunitions.com/cathartech/mp3/cathartech-untitled1b.mp3\n</p>\n','2009-11-23 07:50:03','67.170.80.212',0,6),(63,1,16,4,'<p>http://dl.dropbox.com/u/2469096/Drone_Lab_rev8_2.pdf\n</p>\n','2009-11-23 08:09:42','68.116.170.239',0,3),(64,4,18,4,'<p>Hey thanks for the review and demo! I liked how you used the tremolo feature to create staccato arpeggios. Really psyched that you like it!\n</p>\n','2009-11-23 08:50:22','68.116.170.239',0,2),(65,1,17,20,'<p>Did the email about the address that I sent arrive?\n</p>\n','2009-11-23 13:04:47','59.140.11.41',0,3),(66,1,20,12,'<p>Mouser was out of 595-TLC556CN, so I substituted a 595-TCL556IN.  The major differences are that the CN operates on a minimum of 2v and has an operating temp from 0c to 70c and the IN operates on 3v and has an operating temp from -40c to 85c.  From looking at the circuit, I don\'t *think* the 2v vs. 3v minimum operating voltage will make a difference.  Opinions?\n</p>\n','2009-11-23 20:39:36','144.126.53.78',0,1),(67,1,20,4,'<p>From the information provided, it would seem that there should be no reason this should make a difference unless you\'re going to run the unit outside on a winter\'s night, or off of a low voltage supply.\n</p>\n','2009-11-23 20:55:51','68.116.170.239',0,2),(68,1,20,12,'<p>That\'s what I figured. :-) Just wanted to let folks know there is an alternative.\n</p>\n','2009-11-23 21:10:39','144.126.53.78',0,3),(69,1,20,12,'<p>Whoops, make that a 595-TLC556IN.\n</p>\n','2009-11-23 22:48:09','173.64.108.129',0,4),(70,1,21,5,'<p>The Drone Lab can be run off of a 9 volt battery or a plug in power supply.<br />\n<strong>USING BATTERIES:</strong><br />\nThe total current draw is between 20 and 30mA. Most 9 Volt batteries are rated at around 600 mA Hours. That means that the Drone Lab should be able to run for about 20 hours straight on a single battery. When the battery starts to die, the volume and pitch will drop and the filters will become much softer. If you feel that your Lab has lost it\'s \"edge\" over time, you probably just need a new battery.</p>\n<p><strong>USING A POWER SUPPLY:</strong><br />\nThe Lab has an operating range of around 5 to 15 volts DC. The ideal operating voltage is 9-12volts. When choosing a power supply it is important that you test the output with a voltage meter. Most power supplies put out a voltage higher than they are marked. For instance a 9 volt supply may actually put out 14 volts. Higher quality supplies are usually much more accurate.If you don\'t have a meter, it would be safest to purchase a high quality, regulated, 9 volt power supply. Supplies intended for use on computer equipment like routers, external hard drives and similar items are usually very accurate.<br />\nCheap supplies are often unstable, inaccurate (can be off by 80% of marked voltage) and noisy. A noisy supply will result in a noisy Drone Lab. </p>\n<p><strong>WHAT SUPPLY SHOULD I BUY?:</strong><br />\nThe ideal power supply is 9-12VDC, 50-100mA (more is okay, less is not), negative ring, positive tip, 2.1mm tip.<br />\n<a href=\"http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/PS-1224/12VDC-2A-SWITCHING-POWER-SUPPLY/1.html\">Here\'s the supply I use on my Drone Lab.</a></p>\n<p>It\'s a bit stronger than it needs to be, but it\'s vary stable, and is a switching supply which means I can plug it into US or european outlets and it always outputs exactly 12 volts DC.</p>\n<p><strong>DID I BREAK MY DRONE LAB WITH TOO MUCH VOLTAGE?:</strong><br />\nUsing voltage greater than 18 volts DC can and probably will damage the circuitry. It\'s best to use a supply below 15 volts DC<br />\n If you think you may have damaged the circuit with high voltage, try switching out the ICs. These are the most delicate components and the only ones likely to be damaged by excessive voltage.<br />\n-The 556 ICs control the division settings.<br />\n-The 40106 generates the oscillators and master clock.<br />\n-The TL074 generates the filters.\n</p>\n','2009-11-24 02:04:52','193.75.52.220',0,1),(71,2,22,5,'<p>The Drone Lab can be run off of a 9 volt battery or a plug in power supply.<br />\n<strong>USING BATTERIES:</strong><br />\nThe total current draw is between 20 and 30mA. Most 9 Volt batteries are rated at around 600 mA Hours. That means that the Drone Lab should be able to run for about 20 hours straight on a single battery. When the battery starts to die, the volume and pitch will drop and the filters will become much softer. If you feel that your Lab has lost it\'s \"edge\" over time, you probably just need a new battery.</p>\n<p><strong>USING A POWER SUPPLY:</strong><br />\nThe Lab has an operating range of around 5 to 15 volts DC. The ideal operating voltage is 9-12volts. When choosing a power supply it is important that you test the output with a voltage meter. Most power supplies put out a voltage higher than they are marked. For instance a 9 volt supply may actually put out 14 volts. Higher quality supplies are usually much more accurate.If you don\'t have a meter, it would be safest to purchase a high quality, regulated, 9 volt power supply. Supplies intended for use on computer equipment like routers, external hard drives and similar items are usually very accurate.<br />\nCheap supplies are often unstable, inaccurate (can be off by 80% of marked voltage) and noisy. A noisy supply will result in a noisy Drone Lab. </p>\n<p><strong>WHAT SUPPLY SHOULD I BUY?:</strong><br />\nThe ideal power supply is 9-12VDC, 50-100mA, negative ring, positive tip, 2.1mm tip.<br />\nThe amperage can be higher than 100mA, you just don\'t want it to be less than 50.<br />\n<a href=\"http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/PS-1224/12VDC-2A-SWITCHING-POWER-SUPPLY/1.html\">Here\'s the supply I use on my Drone Lab.</a></p>\n<p>It puts out more amperage than is necessary, but that\'s okay. The circuit only uses what it needs. It\'s vary stable, and is a switching supply which means I can plug it into US or european outlets and it always outputs exactly 12 volts DC.</p>\n<p><strong>DID I BREAK MY DRONE LAB WITH TOO MUCH VOLTAGE?:</strong><br />\nUsing voltage greater than 18 volts DC can and probably will damage the circuitry. It\'s best to use a supply below 15 volts DC<br />\n If you think you may have damaged the circuit with high voltage, try switching out the ICs. These are the most delicate components and the only ones likely to be damaged by excessive voltage.<br />\n-The 556 ICs control the division settings.<br />\n-The 40106 generates the oscillators and master clock.<br />\n-The TL074 generates the filters.\n</p>\n','2009-11-24 02:08:46','193.75.52.220',0,1),(72,1,20,21,'<p>Hi!</p>\n<p>It seems mouser is also out of the 10uf and 100uf caps. Digi doesen\'t seem to stock \'em either.</p>\n<p>Found these as possible replacements...</p>\n<p>647-UVR1E100MDA1TA for the 10uf.</p>\n<p>647-UVR1E101MEA1TA for the 100uf.</p>\n<p>These both seem to be pretty much exactly what their out of stock brothers and sisters are, only a bit more expensive. Can I get a confirmation from those in the know that these will be ok substitutes? </p>\n<p>Thanks!!!\n</p>\n','2009-11-24 07:42:49','220.110.179.210',0,5),(73,1,20,12,'<p>I ran into the same thing, four.above.five.  I poured through the datasheets and couldn\'t find the difference between the part number in the sheet and the part numbers your ordered.  I\'m 99.99% sure these part numbers are just fine.  I build a lot of devices and manufacturers have a tendency to discontinue part numbers and replace them with new numbers, forcing me to look for equivalent parts.  That might be the case here.\n</p>\n','2009-11-24 13:31:49','173.64.108.129',0,6),(74,1,20,22,'<p>Thanks for this info guys.  Just got my shipping notice from Mouser and realized that the TL556CN won\'t be shipping until the estimated date of 3/4/10.  </p>\n<p>Looks like 450-1C618 (knobs) are also back-ordered for a while too.  Guess I should have paid more attention before I placed my order :)\n</p>\n','2009-11-24 13:42:55','74.253.3.150',0,7),(75,1,20,22,'<p>Also...is there any real difference between 595-TLC556IN and 595-TLC556INE4?  Looks like the 556IN is out of stock as well.\n</p>\n','2009-11-24 13:52:35','74.253.3.150',0,8),(76,1,20,12,'<p>@jhucx: According to the datasheet.......none.  I can\'t find a damn difference.  I\'m sure it will be fine.  Seems to have the same specs as 595-TLC556IN.\n</p>\n','2009-11-24 16:03:28','144.126.53.78',0,9),(77,1,20,22,'<p>Thanks! Just placed another order with Mouser...hopefully they will cancel this portion of my first order, somehow I doubt it though.</p>\n<p>I can see getting a delivery from Mouser next year with a few components and wondering what the hell they are for :)\n</p>\n','2009-11-24 16:27:27','74.253.3.150',0,10),(78,3,10,16,'<p>Why not use the last oscillator in the 40106 instead of using osc 4? Just hook it up into the tremolo circuit and use it? Also I got a big huge list of mods I am working on right now I will get them listed in a little bit so Peter you can decide if I should even try or if its stupid :) Some of them are: Yes, its definitely a patchable system. I was going to add patch sockets into it. But not only to pull audio out of chain but to push CV onto certain things. I have some tiny LFO building blocks I made in the past I thought would be cool to use to animate filters, or heck animate anything. Was thinking of instead of just hooking a CV jack to do wah effect on BP what if there were two CV in jacks that either can use patchable style or can just be parallel strapped to the device you want to CV control. Also have about 3 or 4 satellites. Let me get all my thoughts together and find my list and will throw it out. Before I stuffed and soldered mine I went over and over the board and noticed it had tons of spots to solder in extra lines into. Some seemed intentional some were just the normal vias. Will post more in a bit. I did go ahead and add a automated bassline generator like they recently made at umm I forgot the get together. It was cool adding it to drone lab. Pete you know your crazy pulse divider/master divider/xor xnor logic module you made. I am nearly finished with mine. Havent decided what to do with it yet if I can make this dronelab a lot more patchable, I may add it to my new suitcase synth I am making that also has a soundlab ultimate in it and other crap.\n</p>\n','2009-11-24 17:48:31','97.66.94.178',0,5),(79,5,4,6,'<p>As luck would have it, I got 4 1K resistors and 15 10K resistors with my parts kit. But no worries... I just happen to have an identical spare 1K resistor at hand. I\'m actually sort of amazed that you counted them accurately as you seem to have! It must have been a bit of a chore. ;-)\n</p>\n','2009-11-24 18:15:00','98.216.153.236',0,10),(80,5,4,4,'<p>angrydroid:</p>\n<p>Sorry about the mistake! This is our first parts kit, and the method we developed for counting resistors was pretty good, but definitely left room for the occasional error. It was sort of a chore, but really, anything is if you have to do it 100 times in a row.\n</p>\n','2009-11-24 22:54:13','68.116.170.239',0,11),(81,2,23,6,'<p>Those blue caps 0.1uf caps are a bit of a tight fit into their locations on the board. But by pulling the legs through by firmly grasping their legs with a pair of pliers and gently tugging them through they sort of snap into place.\n</p>\n','2009-11-24 23:24:36','98.216.153.236',0,1),(82,2,23,12,'<p>Careful.  Dipped capacitors can be pulled apart by pulling or spreading the legs too hard.\n</p>\n','2009-11-24 23:58:40','173.64.108.129',0,2),(83,4,9,6,'<p>Success! Finished mine in about 7 hours today, including breaks and landlady and cat interference! Nailed it the first time. Hardest part was screwing the rubber feet on.\n</p>\n','2009-11-25 02:34:54','98.216.153.236',0,7),(84,4,9,6,'<p>BTW, cathartec, I <em>really</em> like the mp3! Very nice. I have an SX-150 as well.\n</p>\n','2009-11-25 02:38:46','98.216.153.236',0,8),(85,1,20,5,'<p>jhucx:<br />\nYou should call up mouser customer service to see about changing your order. My bet is that they CAN\'T change your order, but they are very friendly and will help if hey can.\n</p>\n','2009-11-25 02:54:24','67.248.19.168',0,11),(86,2,23,5,'<p>you could also straighten the legs out with pliers, or just leave them poking out a bit, that\'s what I\'ve been doing.\n</p>\n','2009-11-25 02:56:59','67.248.19.168',0,3),(87,1,20,12,'<p>Agreed.  Call them.  I\'ve had to swap parts on orders in the past, and they were very helpful.  I\'ve also had them send me the incorrect parts two times in the past (in the last 200+ orders.)  When I called, they send me the correct parts quickly and didn\'t even want the incorrect parts back!\n</p>\n','2009-11-25 03:46:04','173.64.108.129',0,12),(88,6,24,6,'<p>How is the 1/4\" mono input supposed to work? I\'ve plugged a couple things into it and turned the input volume up but I am not getting anything. Might be a cold solder joint but I was just wondering anyways.\n</p>\n','2009-11-25 04:06:11','98.216.153.236',0,1),(89,1,20,22,'<p>Cheers guys! Mouser really surprised me actually.  I just responded to the email notifying me of the back-order status saying I would like to cancel this portion of the order.  They responded within 2 hours saying they had canceled it and refunded my dough.</p>\n<p>Can\'t wait to get started building!\n</p>\n','2009-11-25 12:48:35','74.253.3.150',0,13),(90,1,25,24,'<p>Any chance someone could post an outline/drill dimensions of the faceplate?\n</p>\n','2009-11-25 23:30:41','24.193.9.47',0,1),(91,1,25,12,'<p>http://casperelectronics.com/drone-lab-housing/\n</p>\n','2009-11-25 23:39:36','173.64.108.129',0,2),(92,5,4,6,'<p>I have to say. I &lt;3 this thing!\n</p>\n','2009-11-26 00:17:48','98.216.153.236',0,12),(93,5,4,26,'<p>finally here!!!<br />\nthe box was waiting for me at work this morning,,,<br />\ni might not sleep tonight.....<br />\nkit looks \"de puta madre...!!\"<br />\nthanks from barcelona\n</p>\n','2009-11-26 10:45:47','87.219.236.152',0,13),(94,5,4,27,'<p>big ol package of 5 dronelabs arrived yesterday. thanks pete and co!\n</p>\n','2009-11-26 13:08:50','82.198.136.241',0,14),(95,1,20,5,'<p>Hey y\'all. Don\'t worry too much about matching part #s. I used a 10uF cap from mouser. The part # is 647-UVR1E100MDA1TA. If you can get this exact part that\'s great, but most 10uF caps out there will work. One of the concerns when ordering caps is size since they can vary quite a bit. One of the more time consuming parts of planning the kit was going through the spec sheets of every single part to make sure it was the right size. That\'s pretty important when you are ordering parts for 100 units, but when you\'re ordering parts for one kit, a few awkwardly sized components won\'t make or break it.\n</p>\n','2009-11-26 13:16:26','67.248.19.168',0,14),(96,6,24,4,'<p>The input jack should be a mono sound input with a grounded sleeve.  It should mix with instrument or line level input relatively easily. Check for reversed polarity capacitors or cold solder joints.\n</p>\n','2009-11-26 16:35:26','68.116.170.239',0,2),(97,6,24,6,'<p>Thanks. I\'ll have to take a closer look at it after the holiday.\n</p>\n','2009-11-26 16:36:26','98.216.153.236',0,3),(98,2,23,4,'<p>I\'ve been unbending the caps before inserting them, and it has been helping immensely. I usually just squeeze with a set of pliers, as bsom pointed out, you don\'t wanna tug too hard.\n</p>\n','2009-11-26 16:36:45','68.116.170.239',0,4),(99,2,23,4,'<p>I\'ve been unbending the caps before inserting them, and it has been helping immensely. I usually just squeeze with a set of pliers, as bsom pointed out, you don\'t wanna tug too hard.\n</p>\n','2009-11-26 16:36:46','68.116.170.239',1,5),(100,4,26,6,'<p>Here\'s a quick test I ran today to show a friend.</p>\n<li>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ITAQ9y_Y6ck</li>\n','2009-11-26 16:37:47','98.216.153.236',0,1),(101,4,26,4,'<p>Very Cool! How did you do the visualizations?\n</p>\n','2009-11-27 00:37:48','68.116.170.239',0,2),(102,4,26,6,'<p>Recorded it to HDD. Played it through Foobar2000 with Milkdrop (by Ryan Geiss) as a visualization. Captured that and the audio with FRAPS.</p>\n<p>http://www.nullsoft.com/free/milkdrop/<br />\nhttp://www.fraps.com/\n</p>\n','2009-11-27 02:35:33','98.216.153.236',0,3),(103,3,10,16,'<p>I definitely want to find spots to patch into both CV and Audio. One of the big ones is the animation of the oscillators. Right now they are animated by two 556 oscillators, but sometimes the clock divisions do not umm \"track\" very well. So I was thinking of using my pulse divider/master divider block to control oscillator animation. And speaking of the oscillators I got a circuit diagram I grabbed from someone and used it before with a Schmitt hex inverter like the one used in drone lab. They added vactrols to the oscillator inputs for the animation and it made a very smooth sound. One of the cool additions using the vactrols is adding a cap in between the legs of the LED side of the vactrol to control (slow down) the speed of the LED.</p>\n<p>Also a envelope follower circuit right after the input with patchable output to cv control a oscillator or anything else.</p>\n<p>Like I said before CV jacks that can either be hardwired to a spot or patched. Example of this is Caspers idea of a pedal Wah control on the (first?) bandpass filter. I really like how the BP filters each have thier own nice sound based off different cap values. Once again if it was patchable here we could \"dial in\" a slightly different sound.</p>\n<p>Started using Eric Archers and 4ms\'s cool Andromeda Space Rockers to add different sounds to the drone lab. I need to figure out how to add in the system they use to control clocking of sound to Drone lab or give them hardwired jacks, but thats not the vibe for those, they use IR leds and receivers to transmit clock signal to each other.</p>\n<p>Also working on a few satellites for the Drone lab. Going to try to get Casper all the specs for them and if he wants he can publish them or I can put them on my site. Its no biggie. One is a wave table satellite. Another is a variation of one of the automated bassline generators. And the other uses Caspers great idea! It will use the barbie karaoke board for echo and other weird sounds (BTW grab those things on ebay they are FANTASTIC, I got 3 of them now about to have a 4th).</p>\n<p>Just more random thoughts....\n</p>\n','2009-11-27 16:09:34','74.244.221.28',0,6),(104,2,27,19,'<p>Argh.  I would have sworn that band was orange when I installed them, but inspection of what I had thought to be 100K resistors revealed 1) too few 2) clearly orange bands.   Sigh.</p>\n<p>My question: should I try desoldering them or should I try to piggyback 11K owm resistors (of which I have a PILE) to the incorrectly installed 100K ohm resistors?</p>\n<p>I\'m leaning towards the latter choice.  Any advice?  Buy a new circuit board, you say?  ;-)\n</p>\n','2009-11-28 16:21:41','98.110.160.44',0,1),(105,2,28,19,'<p>Related to my previous post, I have a bunch of 100K ohm, 1/8 watt resistors (from one of my many dumpster diving expeditions).  Can I use those in place of the 1/4 100K ohm resistors I mis-installed?   thanks!\n</p>\n','2009-11-28 16:27:28','98.110.160.44',0,1),(106,2,27,5,'<p>Piggy backing should be fine. No need to remove and resolder..... or buy a new kit ;-)\n</p>\n','2009-11-28 17:12:02','67.248.19.168',0,2),(107,2,28,5,'<p>They\'ll work fine.\n</p>\n','2009-11-28 17:12:57','67.248.19.168',0,2),(108,2,27,4,'<p>You can desolder them! You\'ll get statistically similar tolerances on the 10k value by using 11k piggy-backed resistors. I would think the only problem with this would be the physical limitations. I.E. space, durability, reliable solder joints, etc. At the same time, it would probably be fine if you did it using two resistors.\n</p>\n','2009-11-28 17:16:56','68.116.170.239',0,3),(109,2,27,12,'<p>I did the same thing.  The \"Orange\" and \"Yellow\" stripes used in the documentation aren\'t different enough. :-)  Luckily, I caught myself halfway through and desoldered the incorrect resistors...\n</p>\n','2009-11-28 19:31:34','173.64.108.129',0,4),(110,2,27,19,'<p>Aaah... just discovered that the seal on my \"soldapult\" has decomposed, so it doesn\'t draw a vacuum anymore.  So I am definitely going to try the piggyback approach.  </p>\n<p>I\'m fairly good at this sort of thing -- I\'ve built ugly-style RF circuitry soldered onto unetched copper PC board, and I like the physical challenge of making good mechanical joints before soldering.\n</p>\n','2009-11-28 21:01:27','98.110.160.44',0,5),(111,2,28,19,'<p>Thanks!\n</p>\n','2009-11-28 21:02:38','98.110.160.44',0,3),(112,2,5,5,'<p>The typos in the power point have been fixed.\n</p>\n','2009-11-28 21:42:13','67.248.19.168',0,9),(113,2,29,28,'<p>Everything is running but the faceplate kit is a bit fiddly.  I\'m on my third dissasemble.  I\'m cautious as I know too much tightening might crack a faceplate, maybe.<br />\nIs this the right order?<br />\nscrews/plexi faceplate/vinyl tube spacer/circuit board/nut/backboard/rubber feet/lock washer/nut?</p>\n<p>I\'ve tried lock washer between the screw and the plexi as well. There does not seem to be much thread for the feet.</p>\n<p>I did figure out the key is getting the centre screw in first, then sides and leave corners for last.\n</p>\n','2009-11-28 22:55:26','24.68.132.40',0,1),(114,1,30,12,'<p>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q-vXtK24BW4</p>\n<p>I cheated, of course, and used time-lapse video recording, but here is a video of me assembling my Drone Lab in just under 7 minutes!</p>\n<p>//bsom\n</p>\n','2009-11-28 23:10:11','173.64.108.129',0,1),(115,2,29,5,'<p>This step is tricky!<br />\nHere\'s the order.<br />\nscrews/plexi faceplate/vinyl tube spacer/circuit board/lock washer/nut/backboard/rubber feet/nut.</p>\n<p>press the nut into the foot. Make sure it\'s pressed in as far as possible.<br />\nBefore putting on the back plate, tighten the four corner bolts to make sure they are tight and the lock washers are fully compressed. </p>\n<p>Put on the back plate and then screw on the feet. Again, make sure the nut is pushed in as far as possible. </p>\n<p>It\'s tricky but not impossible. I\'ve done a bunch myself. They\'ve all been a little difficult but I\'ve gotten them on without too much trouble.\n</p>\n','2009-11-28 23:30:52','67.248.19.168',0,2),(116,2,31,5,'<p>This step is tricky!<br />\nThe screw will seem a bit short but once you get the nut to thread onto the screw, the foot compresses and it all works out.</p>\n<p>Here\'s the order of assembly.<br />\nscrews/plexi faceplate/vinyl tube spacer/circuit board/lock washer/nut/backboard/rubber feet/nut.</p>\n<p>press the nut into the foot. Make sure it\'s pressed in as far as possible.<br />\nBefore putting on the back plate, tighten the four corner bolts to make sure they are tight and the lock washers are fully compressed. </p>\n<p>Put on the back plate and then screw on the feet. Again, make sure the nut is pushed in as far as possible. </p>\n<p>It\'s tricky but not impossible. I\'ve done a bunch myself. They\'ve all been a little difficult but I\'ve gotten them on without too much trouble.\n</p>\n','2009-11-28 23:32:07','67.248.19.168',0,1),(117,2,29,28,'<p>Casper:  Thanks. just read this.  I got it to work but slightly different order:  I finaly went screw/plexi/ circuit board/nut w no washer/back/lock washer/rubber foot /and nut. I really had to push the nut into the foot with the tip of slightly opened fine pliers to get an even pressure.  It almost looked as if there was a back/front to the buts and when I flipped them they worked. Droning along nicely. like the bandpass circuit!\n</p>\n','2009-11-28 23:57:53','24.68.132.40',0,3),(118,2,29,5,'<p>weird. The problem your probably running into though is that the corners press down and the middle bulges. If you put the lock washers between the PCB and the nut, this bulge will be less pronounced. But if it works, then it works... Glad the droning is going well.\n</p>\n','2009-11-29 00:04:57','67.248.19.168',0,4),(119,4,32,26,'<p>Took 6hours...and wasn\'t difficult but tedious....<br />\ni posted some images of the process in my blog: http://hackingbynight.wordpress.com/</p>\n<p>sounds amazing...thanks again pete and the team for such a good job....looking forward for additions....\n</p>\n','2009-11-29 10:17:24','62.37.164.3',0,1),(120,6,24,6,'<p>Yup. It was a cold solder joint on the input channel. All is well.\n</p>\n','2009-11-29 17:35:16','98.216.153.236',0,4),(121,6,24,5,'<p>huzzah! Glad you got it working. I\'d LOVE to hear some recordings of the input jack in action. or a video!!\n</p>\n','2009-11-29 19:37:31','67.248.19.168',0,5),(122,4,32,5,'<p>Wow... your blog... or the work ON your blog is amazing. really inspiring stuff.\n</p>\n','2009-11-29 19:38:16','67.248.19.168',0,2),(123,1,30,5,'<p>Cool video. I can\'t believe you got all the parts from mouser so fast!<br />\nHow long did it actually take to assemble?<br />\nI\'d like to use that video on my site if you don\'t mind.... any objections?\n</p>\n','2009-11-29 19:39:01','67.248.19.168',0,2),(124,1,30,12,'<p>Sure, you can embed the video...</p>\n<p>I had the parts for a few days before I had a chance to assemble it.  Mouser seems to be faster on small orders than on bigger ones.  When I order stuff for my own projects, it usually ships the same day or next morning.  When I order large lots for work, it sometimes takes 4-5 days before the items ship. {shrug}  I also use USPS for my small orders, which means they are often delivered in 2-3 days and Saturday delivery is possible.</p>\n<p>In real time, it took a little less than 5 hours.  You\'ll notice my clothes change half way through the video.  I called it a night and picked up the next morning half way through.</p>\n<p>You may also notice some spots where I drop items on the floor and some trouble I had installing the Input and Output jacks.  The Input jack is a bit too close to the Power jack.  I actually had to remove solder from the side lug of the Power jack to get the Input jack in place.\n</p>\n','2009-11-29 20:02:11','173.64.108.129',0,3),(125,1,30,4,'<p>Fantastic job, thanks for the video! Yea, the jacks were placed close together like that to save space and supply structural support to the power jack. When I build the Drone Lab I usually put all the jacks in at once, then solder them together.\n</p>\n','2009-11-29 20:20:00','24.92.54.69',0,4),(126,1,30,12,'<p>Yeah, that would have made more sense had I realized they were so tight. :-)\n</p>\n','2009-11-29 20:21:41','173.64.108.129',0,5),(127,6,33,6,'<p>I\'ve noticed sometimes a sort of faint buzzing at times which I have traced to the oscillator channels bleeding through the inverse settings. It\'s only noticeable at lower pitch settings. Just curious if I did something wrong or this is  unavoidable. Or perhaps I just simply do not quite understand what the INV switch does?\n</p>\n','2009-11-29 20:51:53','98.216.153.236',0,1),(128,4,32,26,'<p>thanks..that is a great compliment...<br />\nindeed casperelectronics had always been a big source of inspiration..not to mention what a clear information resource your site has been since i have been involved in bending and electronic instruments...so thanks again from Barcelona\n</p>\n','2009-11-29 23:36:00','62.37.164.3',0,3),(129,6,33,5,'<p>There is some signal bleed in the Drone Lab under certain circumstances.<br />\nThere are to levels of signal bleed.  One comes from the tremolo feature when a tone volume is all of the way up but the signal is being inhibited by the tremolo feature. This is especially noticeable when a channel volume is UP, the tremolo switch is ON, the INVERT switch is OFF and the tremolo tempo is OFF. This makes a standing, full volume tone which is inhibited by the tremolo. Try it and you\'ll see what I mean.</p>\n<p>The bleed drastically increases when you turn up the distortion. When distortion is all the way up, all bets are off. Oscillators will bleed through and the timer from the tremolo will make faint clicking sounds. This was an element of the design I deliberated over for a long time. I decided that the distortion feature was awesome enough to justify some bleed. And it\'s not noticeable if you have one or two tones droning over the noise.</p>\n<p>All told, the bleeding and clicking is relatively easy to work around.<br />\nOf course it\'s not ideal, but it\'s a HUGE improvement over earlier designs.\n</p>\n','2009-11-29 23:53:36','67.248.19.168',0,2),(130,4,32,4,'<p>This is fantastic! I love the enclosure and the video! Thanks for posting this, it\'s so exciting to see people making the drone their own. Glad you\'re having fun!\n</p>\n','2009-11-30 00:51:03','24.92.54.69',0,4),(131,4,26,4,'<p>Fantastic, thanks a lot for the links!\n</p>\n','2009-11-30 00:51:35','24.92.54.69',0,4),(132,6,33,6,'<p>Cool! This is all good to know. Plus... I tried what you said and, weirdo that I am, I consider that noise a <em>plus!</em> ;-) It sounds like a hawk on PCP!</p>\n<p>One more thing... is that sound bad for the machine in any way? It\'s positively horrifying!\n</p>\n','2009-11-30 00:56:45','98.216.153.236',0,3),(133,4,32,4,'<p>BTW I absolutely LOVE your mechanical beat sequencer with the turntable. I want to build one! Maybe a light gate version designed to use dry erase markers.\n</p>\n','2009-11-30 01:04:14','24.92.54.69',0,5),(134,4,26,6,'<p>Oh. and one more thing. If you want to use Winamp visualization plugins in Foobar2K (Foobar\'s mp3 rendering is often said to sound better than Winamp\'s) then put the shpeck wrapper dll in your components folder.</p>\n<p>foobar: http://www.foobar2000.org/<br />\nshpeck: http://pelit.koillismaa.fi/plugins/show.php?id=253</p>\n<p>(My apologies if you use OSX or Linux and this is all irrelevant.)\n</p>\n','2009-11-30 01:05:06','98.216.153.236',0,5),(135,6,33,5,'<p>I should have mentioned this... That awesome \"hawk on pcp\" is a totally different thing and has nothing to do with the signal bleed. That\'s a very intentional feed back feature. It does great stuff when combined with a tone. Try turning all of the tones down, then turn distortion level and amount all the way up. Now turn up one tone just a few degrees. turn up a second tone a few degrees and tune them together to make a drone. You should be able to get some really cool effects as the drone and the feedback tone mixes together.</p>\n<p>The amplified bleed issue I was talking about in my last response occurs when the distortion is turned part way up BEFORE the feedback tone comes in. make sense?\n</p>\n','2009-11-30 01:11:28','67.248.19.168',0,4),(136,6,33,5,'<p>No... the feedback scream is not bad at all for the machine. I like to think that it\'s actually good for it.\n</p>\n','2009-11-30 01:41:11','67.248.19.168',0,5),(137,6,33,6,'<p>Oh yeah! That was one of the first things I discovered after turning it on! My cat, Mochi, loves this! No. Really. Kind of like Bill T. Miller\'s amazing cat, Tippi!</p>\n<p>Mochi http://i45.tinypic.com/dm5yth.jpg<br />\nMy setup http://i46.tinypic.com/16jeq7d.jpg\n</p>\n','2009-11-30 01:50:12','98.216.153.236',0,6),(138,4,26,6,'<p>Oh and another thing. In Winamp you could just type \'linein://\' into your URL and use the visualizations live.\n</p>\n','2009-11-30 02:09:01','98.216.153.236',0,6),(139,1,20,19,'<p>Supposing I had lost one of the 4700 pF capacitors...<br />\nand further supposing I found a 1% (yes, 1% !!) \"Rel-cap\" in my junk box, marked 5547 pF which with a bit of persuasion would fit into the empty space for C31. </p>\n<p>Now, I\'m a software engineer with a soldering iron, but I\'d think that might be an OK sub.</p>\n<p>Comments?\n</p>\n','2009-11-30 04:03:02','98.110.160.44',0,15),(140,1,20,4,'<p>NZC, I would think this substitution will work out alright, but will change the sound of the filter you change it in.  Try it out by just inserting the caps into the holes and bending them so they make contact before you solder and see which configuration makes it sound best to you!\n</p>\n','2009-11-30 04:32:53','24.92.54.69',0,16),(141,2,5,9,'<p>Mirrored v3 Docs:</p>\n<p><a href=\"http://www.freepeter.com/dl/Drone_Build_Diagramsv3.pdf\">PDF</a> and <a href=\"http://www.freepeter.com/dl/Drone_Build_Diagramsv3.ppt\">PPT</a>\n</p>\n','2009-11-30 06:29:16','71.192.160.89',0,10),(142,4,32,26,'<p>thanks Chris...yeah i agree there is something about mechanical sequencers, that makes them unique, and it is easy to understand it\'s interface, the visual aspect...the movement, the little color dots spinning...i love it too...and the old mechanics had already a system to keep speed regular...what else can you ask for when attempting to build a sequencer.... i had also been thinking about a light gated version...to use with my sequencer mechanics...i can swap the top (golden)unit and keep the movement and plastic beads as they are...but hey!!! a dry markers version sounds as an awesome idea...i can see experimenting with hearing the sound of drawings...great!!!\n</p>\n','2009-11-30 06:30:58','62.37.164.3',0,6),(143,2,5,4,'<p>THANKS!\n</p>\n','2009-11-30 08:39:30','24.92.54.69',0,11),(144,2,29,27,'<p>this worked fine for me. i found it easier to go as pete says, i placed the drone lab upside down on the table with the screws standing up from the plexi glass and worked like that.</p>\n<p>cool!</p>\n<p>just need to trouble shoot the distortion and line in and i\'m all set.\n</p>\n','2009-11-30 17:40:31','82.198.136.241',0,5),(145,1,30,5,'<p>Hey! what\'s the sound track on the video?\n</p>\n','2009-11-30 21:01:56','67.248.19.168',0,6),(146,1,30,12,'<p>\"Slowly Torn Apart by Machines\"<br />\nartist: Demogorgon<br />\nalbum: The Last Few Days\n</p>\n','2009-11-30 21:40:34','144.126.53.78',0,7),(147,6,24,27,'<p>ok, so i\'ve been trouble shooting my problems, and i\'ve fixed the problem with my distortion circuit. </p>\n<p>i\'m having trouble with my input. i can\'t figure out what\'s wrong. i\'ve been over the input circuit all night and i can\'t find the issue. no cold joints, caps in right way...</p>\n<p>when i turn on the unit i get a bit of volume on the in_vol pot and then it fades away. when i turn off the unit and on again i get a faint bit more volume and then it dies away again..</p>\n<p>anu ideas?\n</p>\n','2009-11-30 22:42:56','79.97.237.80',0,6),(148,6,24,27,'<p>curiouser and curiouser. when i put my er-1 drum machine it sounds distorted (really cool tho!) and when i put my atari punk console through it it cuts out at varios turns of the vol knob...\n</p>\n','2009-11-30 22:48:30','79.97.237.80',0,7),(149,6,24,5,'<p>Hey ootini<br />\nIt sounds like you might have the input capacitor in backwards. Check C5 and C6... if that\'s not the problem let me know.\n</p>\n','2009-12-01 00:36:28','67.248.19.168',0,8),(150,1,20,19,'<p>I understand just barely enough about op-amp filters to get myself in trouble.  I looked at the schematic and said, hm... looks like it\'s in the feedback loop; no, wait, maybe that one\'s just an dc input blocker or ... wait... no, maybe it is in the feedback path... or... (confusion reigns)  ;-)  Hell, maybe I\'ll just see if they\'ve got any 4700pF caps in the EE lab at work.\n</p>\n','2009-12-01 01:28:07','98.110.160.44',0,17),(151,5,4,29,'<p>My Drone kits arrived safely and in EX condition this morning.<br />\nthanks from Japan\n</p>\n','2009-12-01 03:11:21','61.205.128.79',0,15),(152,6,24,27,'<p>after rechecking the caps and the entire input circuit, i focused on the in_vol pot and compared resistance readings on the other pots, probing the middle pin and the right pin. the in_vol pot goes from 0 kohms to 12kohms in the middle of the turn to 0 kohms at the far turn.</p>\n<p>all the other pots go from 30-40 kohms to 0.</p>\n<p>could this be my problem? a faulty pot?</p>\n<p>i\'ve checked and rechecked the entire input circuit right up to the mixer. all fine.\n</p>\n','2009-12-01 12:52:06','79.97.237.80',0,9),(153,2,34,5,'<p>-<a href=\"http://casperelectronics.com/drone-lab-housing/\">Housing info and artwork</a><br />\n-<a href=\"http://casperelectronics.com/drone-lab-schematic/\">Schematic</a><br />\n-<a href=\"http://casperelectronics.com/drone-lab-pcb-artwork/\">Board artwork</a><br />\n-<a href=\"http://casperelectronics.com/drone-lab-parts/\">Materials list</a><br />\n-<a href=\"http://casperelectronics.com/drone-lab-assembly/\">Assembly instructions</a><br />\n-<a href=\"http://casperelectronics.com/drone-lab-operation/\">How to use your Drone Lab</a>\n</p>\n','2009-12-01 13:41:44','67.248.19.168',0,1),(154,6,24,5,'<p>it\'s probably not a faulty  pot. can you send me a high res photo of the board?\n</p>\n','2009-12-01 14:16:24','67.248.19.168',0,10),(155,6,24,5,'<p>it\'s probably not a faulty  pot. can you send me a high res photo of the board?\n</p>\n','2009-12-01 14:16:27','67.248.19.168',1,11),(156,6,24,27,'<p>sure thing....\n</p>\n','2009-12-01 14:22:40','79.97.237.80',0,11),(157,6,24,27,'<p>hope these are ok. my camera has 5m pixel max resolution...</p>\n<p>http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2607/4149741761_118e8c203b_o.jpg</p>\n<p>http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2633/4149741751_814e0fa99a_o.jpg</p>\n<p>http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2495/4149741741_f9134d7d5f_o.jpg\n</p>\n','2009-12-01 15:16:15','79.97.237.80',0,12),(158,6,24,27,'<p>erm, is it correct to solder all four contacts on the audio in/out jacks? shouldn\'t you just solder the side where the connections with the cable are made?</p>\n<p>(i\'ve soldered all 4)\n</p>\n','2009-12-01 15:43:51','79.97.237.80',0,13),(159,6,24,12,'<p>Yes, you want to solder all 4 since they are holding the connector to the board. :-)\n</p>\n','2009-12-01 16:15:18','144.126.53.78',0,14),(160,6,24,5,'<p>I think I\'ve got it. Flip C5. Blarg. It\'s my fault. I think we marked C5\'s polarity backwards.<br />\nThat should fix it. Let me know if that works.\n</p>\n','2009-12-01 16:31:24','67.248.19.168',0,15),(161,6,24,5,'<p>angrydroid, what kind of audio signals are you sending into the input? I\'ve found that some signals pass and some don\'t. Flipping C5 should fix it so that ALL signals will pass.\n</p>\n','2009-12-01 16:42:06','67.248.19.168',0,16),(162,6,24,27,'<p>woo! will update in a tic! cheers!\n</p>\n','2009-12-01 16:51:41','79.97.237.80',0,17),(163,6,24,27,'<p>nope :\\\n</p>\n','2009-12-01 17:50:40','79.97.237.80',0,18),(164,6,24,5,'<p>you flipped C5? It\'s the black electrolytic cap directly  below C17...above and to the left of TL074. It\'s flipped so that the negative side is up? Based on symptoms you described earlier, I\'m really surprised this didn\'t fix it. What is it doing now? exactly the same thing as before?\n</p>\n','2009-12-01 18:49:27','67.248.19.168',0,19),(165,6,24,27,'<p>i can hear the signal reaaally faintly. i\'ll double check everything again tomorrow.</p>\n<p>if the cap art was labelled wrongly shouldn\'t other builders be getting the same problems tho?\n</p>\n','2009-12-01 19:13:49','79.97.237.80',0,20),(166,6,24,27,'<br />\n','2009-12-01 19:24:32','79.97.237.80',0,21),(167,6,24,27,'<p>i think i messed up the topside trace between r4 and c5. i joined them on the bottom side, the signal is a bit better, but still quite muffled and low...and only gets a signal when in_vol is cranked to the max..\n</p>\n','2009-12-01 19:41:32','79.97.237.80',0,22),(168,6,24,27,'<p>and my drum machine doesn\'t give a signal at all. only the 555 oscillator of the atari punk console....\n</p>\n','2009-12-01 19:43:27','79.97.237.80',0,23),(169,6,24,5,'<p>hmmm. there is no top trace between r4 and c5 the only connection between these leads is on the bottom. I think that in fixing one problem, another problem may have been generated.\n</p>\n','2009-12-01 20:58:34','67.248.19.168',0,24),(170,6,24,27,'<p>sory, that new trace i made was to the wrong side of r4 anyway. :) i\'ll keep going. there is somethig fishy. i\'ll just have to figure it out...\n</p>\n','2009-12-01 21:03:04','79.97.237.80',0,25),(171,2,35,5,'<p>There\'s an error on the board marking of C5. C5 is connected to the audio input signal.<br />\nThe positive side of the cap should be at the bottom NOT at the top. If you put the cap in the way it is marked on the board, the input signal will be distorted or intermittent or just not work at all. Flipping the cap should fix this and the input will work fine.</p>\n<p>UPDATE!:</p>\n<p>If your board says V2.1 on the back, do not worry about this, install C5 as you would normally, with the long end going through the square hole!\n</p>\n','2009-12-01 21:31:30','67.248.19.168',0,1),(172,6,24,6,'<p>Umm, well... to answer the above question, I\'ve run atari punks, SX-150, a Casio SK-1, a police scanner and an ancient reel-to-reel tape deck through the input. All of them work fine at various input levels from the instruments and the input volume levels. So, in other words, everything seems to be working normally. The only thing I\'d say is that they all seem to be rather loud compared to the oscillators.</p>\n<p>Are you saying we need to flip C5?\n</p>\n','2009-12-01 22:06:42','98.216.153.236',0,26),(173,6,24,6,'<p>Hmmm... I just did as your sticky said... reversed the polarity on C5 and I think it sounds less distorted now... maybe?\n</p>\n','2009-12-01 22:39:17','98.216.153.236',0,27),(174,4,36,4,'<p>Gallery of some photos we\'ve taken of the Drone Lab.</p>\n<p>http://www.dropbox.com/gallery/605877/1/DLBeautyShots?h=03573a\n</p>\n','2009-12-02 00:24:12','24.92.54.69',0,1),(175,6,24,4,'<p>The capacitors are mainly to block DC bias from effecting the mixing op-amp. Essentially, you want all the signals to \"ride\" on the 4.5 V supply to the non-inverting terminal of the op-amp. A reversed polarity cap seems to allow AC (audio signal) current to flow, but only for loud signals it would seem. At the shop we have flipped the C5 cap and been able to use the input channel perfectly it would seem. We will try to use a guitar input level or microphone tonight and see how that is working. As for advice on a malfunctioning unit, check for cold joints, and if all else fails, brute force check all the related components and connections with your trusty multi-meter. Place special attention to checking for continuity (the beep mode) where things should be connected, and make sure there is no continuity or a short where there shouldn\'t be.\n</p>\n','2009-12-02 00:32:26','24.92.54.69',0,28),(176,2,35,31,'<p>I was just running a speak n math &amp; a 606 through the input and it was working fine, although it would cut out at certain points on the input dial (although very rarely), I\'ll reverse the C5 cap tomorrow and see what difference it makes.  I\'ve also tried controlling the trig in with a korg kr-55b drum trig and it works fine also, it was a bit sensitive to the 606 trig out though (it would pick up the muted \"off\" steps between the \"on\" steps).  I could also control the tempo with a voice of saturn sequencer clock really well, but not the other way round.  I\'ll test it\'s compatability with other machines/synths too.  A possible mod would be a FM or an MG/LFO in jack which could be interesting to patch an MS-10 etc into, also a noise filter might be cool.  I\'m very happy with the drone lab, it was very easy to put together and so easy to get the hang of. Not only does it do nice drones, but it can do some interesting noise/feedback &amp; rhythms (which I wasn\'t expecting).  I do get some intermittent noise when the BPF Balance is all the way up, but nothing I can\'t deal with.  Excellent work!, now I have to get on with making a case for it, will post pics when I do!\n</p>\n','2009-12-02 06:18:55','118.209.22.174',0,2),(177,6,24,27,'<p>woo. fixed the input. cold solder joint. doh. thanks for all the help! now to figure out the cv clock from my bass station :)\n</p>\n','2009-12-02 13:25:29','79.97.237.80',0,29),(178,6,37,6,'<p>I\'ve noticed that the oscillator tones, when tuned up about 3/5s of the way acquire a vibrato. I\'m just curious as to what is going on behind this? I\'m not complaining but is this another \"feature\" or an unforeseen side-effect?\n</p>\n','2009-12-02 16:33:57','98.216.153.236',0,1),(179,6,37,5,'<p>The tremolo clock is on right? If you turn the clock off the vibrato should stop. This is also usually associated with the batteries getting low. If you use a power supply, the vibrato effect should be eliminated or at least greatly diminished.\n</p>\n','2009-12-02 17:33:20','67.248.19.168',0,2),(180,6,24,5,'<p>oootini:<br />\nIt all works now??\n</p>\n','2009-12-02 18:45:18','67.248.19.168',0,30),(181,6,24,27,'<p>yep, all good! thanks a mill pete...\n</p>\n','2009-12-02 18:50:51','79.97.237.80',0,31),(182,1,38,32,'<p>I corrected the position of C5 and everything works. Excellent filters section, and distortion. Connected to the  VOS sequencer works very well.\n</p>\n','2009-12-02 18:53:15','62.10.52.33',0,1),(183,6,37,6,'<p>Nope. Tremolo is off and I am using a 9V 150 mA power supply wallwart. And now that you mention it... the vibrato goes away when I switch to battery power. So one would suspect it\'s the wallwart I am using. :-)\n</p>\n','2009-12-02 18:58:40','98.216.153.236',0,3),(184,6,37,6,'<p>Or both wallwarts I have. :-/\n</p>\n','2009-12-02 20:39:46','98.216.153.236',0,4),(185,4,36,6,'<p>Hey. Maybe I am just a pest but in the board closeup it looks to me like you put C38 in backwards... and, of course, C5 is in the \"old\" way.\n</p>\n','2009-12-02 20:49:14','98.216.153.236',0,2),(186,2,39,33,'<p>okay, first off everything seems to be working on my dronelab including the internal clock and tremolo function</p>\n<p>When i went to go use an external trigger is where i started noticing problems.  I connected the trig in to the clock out of my doepfer sequencer (a-155/a-154 combo) and the clock LED pulses in time, and all the division LED\'s seem to also be lighting when they are supposed to, however the tremelo function is completely dead as long as the external clock is plugged in. (Even when the clock switch is set to \'internal\')<br />\nonce i disconnect the cable to the external clock the tremelo starts working again.  I think this may point to a grounding problem in that part of the circuit but i dont even know where to start looking.\n</p>\n','2009-12-03 00:55:35','206.248.128.13',0,1),(187,2,39,5,'<p>is D7 in the right way? It should be pointing down. You said that the lights are blinking and the dividers are doing what they are supposed to do?<br />\nAre you sure that the input jack ground lug (the one closest to the edge of the board) is connected?</p>\n<p>It\'s more likely that the problem has to do with the pulse width of your input clock.<br />\nThe tremolo circuit has an attack and decay time. If the pulse is too short, there isn\'t enough time for the attack to reach it\'s peak... so you don\'t hear any sound.<br />\nTry connecting the trig in of the Drone Lab to a square wave LFO that you know has a 50% duty cycle (\"square\" not \"pulse\").\n</p>\n','2009-12-03 01:13:10','67.248.19.168',0,2),(188,4,36,5,'<p>hmmm. We don\'t have that specific unit anymore so I can\'t check it. It\'s kind of hard to tell with the glare which way it\'s facing, also the placement of the white stripe is pretty inconsistent. It could be off to the side. But you\'re definitely right about C5. that needs to be flipped.\n</p>\n','2009-12-03 01:25:44','67.248.19.168',0,3),(189,2,39,33,'<p>good call on the pulse width.<br />\ni was using the clock out of the A-154 sequencer controller which has variable pulswidth.  I had to actually set it quite high before it started behaving properly.</p>\n<p>I did tests from a few other clock sources on my modular and it seems that they are all too short without passing it through an EG to extend the pulse time.<br />\nThe only exception was a square LFO and the A-160 clock divider. it stays high for duration of beat so it behaves more like a square LFO.</p>\n<p>Just for the reference, exactly what signal characteristics is the trig-in looking for?\n</p>\n','2009-12-03 01:26:54','206.248.128.13',0,3),(190,6,37,5,'<p>The vibrato is the oscillators being modulated by the 60hZ line voltage from the input. A regulated supply will eliminate that vibrato effect. You can use a regulated supply OR you can install a voltage regulator at the input. In order to do this you will have to make a few small board alterations. There\'s space on the board for a regulator, but in order to use it you will need to add a diode at the input AND a diode at the output. 1N4001s will work fine.\n</p>\n','2009-12-03 01:32:39','67.248.19.168',0,5),(191,2,39,5,'<p>The trig in is looking for pulses between 2 and 9 volts(high) and ground (low). The tremolo gate goes high for as long as the input clock is high, as soon as the input goes low, the tremolo goes low. Does that make sense? there is no EG on the trigger input to extend short clock pulses. Maybe in future versions we\'ll add this. It requires additional circuitry, control hardware and board space but is probably worth it. I actually didn\'t predict that people would be using the clock in as much as they have been.\n</p>\n','2009-12-03 01:49:22','67.248.19.168',0,4),(192,2,39,33,'<p>no that makes perfect sense and fits perfectly to what most EG\'s in euro format are set to deliver (peaks at 5v~7.5v)</p>\n<p>The clock in is a VERY useful feature for this kit.<br />\nAs long as i remember to pass the clock through an AEG or hang it off the clock divider to get it to sync right.<br />\nActually for slower cycling drones the doepfer clock divider seems to work even BETTER because you can have the tremolo events happen at wider beat intervals than your base clock rate.  (and it doesnt need the extra EG)\n</p>\n','2009-12-03 02:26:18','206.248.128.13',0,5),(193,1,38,4,'<p>Congrats on the successful build! So glad to hear that you like it!\n</p>\n','2009-12-03 02:51:25','24.92.54.69',0,2),(194,3,10,5,'<p>hey! You\'ve got so many cool ideas I don\'t even know where to start. I\'ve been meaning to get back to you for a while to let you know how psyched I am about your ideas.<br />\nAs far as using the remaining OSC for routing the audio input. It\'s not an issue of how many Oscillators there are, it\'s an issue of how many volume control circuits there are. and there are 4, so in order to run the audio input through a volume control transistor bank, one would have to disconnect one of the 4 oscillators. </p>\n<p>vactrols are the way to go for CV. you can do Lots of stuff with transistors as well, put a transistor in place of a pot and send current to the center pin. Ray wilson uses that to generate LFO pitch modulation on his schmitt trigger based WSG. There are lots of projects out there that use the 40106 schmitt oscillators. All the tricks they\'re doing for cross modulating and oscillator animation will work on the drone lab. Tom Bugs put a really cool power starve pot on his 40106 based post card weevil. It\'s just a 1m pot between power and the 40106 IC. lots of possibilities!\n</p>\n','2009-12-03 05:14:19','67.248.19.168',0,7),(195,2,5,4,'<p>The 10uF slide now has a note telling the builder to flip the orientation of C5.\n</p>\n','2009-12-03 07:49:49','24.92.54.69',0,12),(196,6,37,6,'<p>Yeah. I bet it\'s the Colonial-era electrical wiring in my apartment even. Changes the pitch and gain as well as introducing this vibrato.\n</p>\n','2009-12-03 14:24:25','98.216.153.236',0,6),(197,6,40,27,'<p>i have a novation bass station rack which has a couple of CV outs (CV out, gate out, Clock out). </p>\n<p>i\'ve been trying to figure out how to use this as a way to sync the dronelab to my DAW. the bass station manual is pretty unhelpful when it comes to explaining it\'s CV functionality. </p>\n<p>when the clock out is connected to the drone lab the division leds light in unison independently of the division pots. when i cranked up the lfo on the synth the div leds started displaying proper \"clock\" blinking, but the signal was really weak.</p>\n<p>are my synth\'s CV capabilties suitable for driving the dronelab tremelo? </p>\n<p>i guess i can just use the square wave with a cap before the tremelo input. it would be cool to use the bass synth though...\n</p>\n','2009-12-03 14:43:55','82.198.136.241',0,1),(198,6,40,4,'<p>My first guess is that the duty cycle of your clock input is way below 50%, or out of the voltage range that the drone lab is designed for. If you have an oscilliscope, try and hook up the clock output for your bass synth, and see what the waveform looks like. We\'ve been talking about different methods for changing pulse-style clock inputs so that they become 50% duty cycle square waves (like the LFO from the CD40106 that drives the Drone Lab\'s clock), but haven\'t quite figured it out yet. More info on this as it develops.\n</p>\n','2009-12-03 15:40:15','24.92.54.69',0,2),(199,6,40,27,'<p>i had to wiki duty cycle :) </p>\n<p>no worries. thanks for the reply. i don\'t have an oscilloscope unfortunately...\n</p>\n','2009-12-03 15:48:11','82.198.136.241',0,3),(200,4,41,6,'<p>Here\'s a few shots of the way I have my drone rig decked out. Soapbox derby time!</p>\n<p>I just wanted to tilt the board gently towards myself for ease of access and use some spare screws, scavanged plywood &amp; coat-hanger wire.<br />\nNew Green Power LED!</p>\n<p>Top: http://i49.tinypic.com/14xfmle.jpg<br />\nRear: http://i45.tinypic.com/15oi45i.jpg<br />\nSide: http://i45.tinypic.com/2ronuww.jpg<br />\nUnderneath: http://i47.tinypic.com/j6kkt1.jpg</p>\n<p>And I was wondering. Did anyone else spy this stuff? http://sugru.com/<br />\nI\'m thinking of using this in some manner. Perhaps for silicone feet or something elegant.\n</p>\n','2009-12-03 16:05:49','98.216.153.236',0,1),(201,6,40,6,'<p>I used an old Panasonic black &amp; white TV i found on the sidewalk and converted it to a wobblevision.<br />\nhttp://www.dansworkshop.com/electricity-and-electronics/homebuilt-oscilloscope.htm</p>\n<p>http://www.circuitbenders.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,30.0.html\n</p>\n','2009-12-03 16:10:46','98.216.153.236',0,4),(202,6,40,27,'<p>i\'ve seen that project. looks really cool angry! i don\'t think i\'ll be messing with anything like that though!</p>\n<p>i spotted some cheapy usb oscilloscopes on ebay though...\n</p>\n','2009-12-03 16:22:35','82.198.136.241',0,5),(203,4,41,4,'<p>hey thanks for the pics! Also, that sugru stuff looks interesting, I\'m skeptical but want to get a sample. Hope they ramp up production and can actually offer some!\n</p>\n','2009-12-03 17:35:26','24.92.54.69',0,2),(204,2,34,24,'<p>I\'m all for the drone lab being one of the greatest kits on the face of the planet, but I\'m insanely disappointed with the AI faceplate doc. No measurements. Editting it is impossible. Easier for me to just start from scratch.</p>\n<p>Through hole pots are great, but unlike everyone else who likes those exposed circuit boards, I like mine pretty and modern!\n</p>\n','2009-12-03 20:02:53','149.31.51.133',0,2),(205,2,34,4,'<p>NoPanda: The documentation provided on the enclosure faceplate is for reference purposes mostly. The idea is to print out the page such that the measurements provided (there are measurements, only two though) are accurate, and then used as a template for cutting or designing your own enclosure. User 9Volts has already done this. If you want your unit pretty and modern, please make it so! Flying wires and off-board pots switches, LEDs, etc. can all be used.\n</p>\n','2009-12-03 21:23:21','24.92.54.69',1,3),(206,2,34,5,'<p>NoPanda<br />\nThere are actually 3 versions of the faceplate artwork on the <a href=\"http://casperelectronics.com/drone-lab-housing/\">housing info and artwork</a> page. There\'s a JPEG in the middle of the page and downloadable, editable vector files at the bottom. There\'s an AI file and an EPS. I plan on offering an auto cad version soon as well, although AI files can be imported to auto cad without much trouble.<br />\nThe AI file can be edited in adobe illustrator however you like. The EPS file was offered as well because many fabrication methods can take straight EPS files. So everything you could need for making your own faceplate from scratch OR getting it fabricated in a shop is there. If you have any problems opening the files, let me know\n</p>\n','2009-12-03 22:36:09','67.248.19.168',0,3),(207,2,42,19,'<p>Despite installing resistors incorrectly and losing a couple parts (one of the 4700 pF caps and a 3906) I finished the assembly and it worked right off the bat... Luckily I have a life-time supply of 3904\'s, 3906\'s, and 2222\'s and 2907\'s for good measure.  Junk box sub of a 5600 pF cap in the bandpass circuit seems ok ... I haven\'t soldered it in yet; I\'m considering putting two machined IC socket pins in and trying different values out.  Wife\'s first comment on hearing it: \"It sounds even more horrible than I had imagined!\"  Well, no accounting for taste I suppose.  Now to hook the chaossilator to the input...\n</p>\n','2009-12-03 23:52:03','206.83.81.178',0,1),(208,2,42,5,'<p>I would definitely recommend installing the sockets to try out different values. We had that on one of our prototype models to tune the filters. It\'s fun to hear what different caps sound like. My girlfriend loves the sounds this thing makes. I guess I\'m lucky! :-)\n</p>\n','2009-12-04 01:29:21','67.248.19.168',0,2),(209,4,43,9,'<p>I was playing around with my guitar + a digital delay pedal, hooked into the Drone Lab.</p>\n<p><a href=\"http://www.fredowsley.com/music/DroneGuitar.mp3\">Drone Guitar 1</a><br />\n<a href=\"http://www.fredowsley.com/music/DroneGuitar2.mp3\">Drone Guitar 2</a>\n</p>\n','2009-12-05 08:59:43','71.192.160.89',0,1),(210,4,43,4,'<p>Hey nice sounds! Thanks for sharing this. The distortion and feedback are particularly nice on the second clip.\n</p>\n','2009-12-05 16:23:41','24.92.54.69',0,2),(211,3,10,36,'<p>Howdy Folks, I got the schematic to the drone lab yesterday and I\'m a simple fellow so my ideas for mods are pretty straight forward.<br />\nOne is to simply have the outputs of the osc\'s on a momentary switch to ground to create a stutter effect. Having the four mom\'s in one place and close together means it could be qite playable bringing osc\'s in and out of play.</p>\n<p>My next one is a continuation of the above by allowing the signalo of each osc to be on a send/return before it hits the LFO connection. I would suppose that an emitter follower on the signal line to send the signal out and another on the return would be enough to to get the signal of each osc out and back in again before hitting the 100k\'s above the invert/noninverting transistors for the LFO signal?</p>\n<p>As for the BPF and control voltage. Where would one apply a control voltage to sweep the filter? Is it that simple whereby a voltage is added to a particular point?</p>\n<p>And last but not least, my congrats to the maker and designer of the drone lab and these forums, my hats off to you good fellow for being so magnanimous and spreading the gospel of DIY sound sculpture tools.\n</p>\n','2009-12-07 20:02:46','119.224.13.67',0,8),(212,4,41,6,'<p>There\'s more sugru.</p>\n<p>http://sugru.com/buy/\n</p>\n','2009-12-07 23:09:30','98.216.153.236',0,3),(213,3,10,16,'<p>Weird I posted a message and it was here a couple hours ago or less. Now its gone. Odd. Well I will post it again later. It was mainly on bending the drone lab. Also some crossing of some signals that does neato things. Truely weird in fact I just came back to page saw the post then its gone. Maybe I said a naughty thing. Maybe Wordpress thinks it was spam. Perhaps the word vactrol or weevil or something is blacklisted :)\n</p>\n','2009-12-09 02:56:07','74.244.221.28',0,9),(214,3,10,36,'<p>Well Analoguebus, your other posts are here so it must have been a glitch \'cause me for one am looking forward to what you have to offer.</p>\n<p>Bummer eh! especially if it\'s a longish post with links and stuff then, Hey Presto, gone into the land of lost digital socks... and who ever remembers to copy just before they post?</p>\n<p>One day ago? the pleasures of being on the other side of the world, the bottom that is... and round the back, what was posted a few hours ago is yesterday but it\'s late afternoon here.\n</p>\n','2009-12-09 03:35:58','119.224.13.67',0,10),(215,3,10,16,'<p>Basically without the rambling the post was about me looking long ago at a Weevil board and wondering why he stuck touch points on the board. Then it hit me when I saw the schematic they were for bending. So long story short I started by using the ol stick fingers on crap and see what happens method. It works FANTASTIC!. (Caveat: I would prob wait for Casper to say it wont burn your dronelab or house down or cause you to implode, knowing the circuitry it should be ok). I am in the process of modding the nice little enclosure he sold. To have touch points to all the \"cool\" areas on the board. Raw non impeded patches may not be healthy for some of the things I have patched. Based off this I am thinking of adding a second TL074 or using just the current one but having to forever change it into a cross modulating filter. I have cross modulated oscillators in another drone box I have but you get a lot of noise if you dont do it right (mine sounded terrible) one thing I learned was adding depth control to the LFOs (they were the modulation sources, i am thinking of this one just using 4 of the oscillators to xmod) also after adding depth control they were wired in a matrix. Dunno how well that will work for this. Wow just thought of another thing of using a matrix mixer with bipolar attenuators at each spot so all the outs form 4 signals and all the ins form 4 signals so it would be 16 pots to attenuate the modulation. maybe...maybe i am sleepy and this is dumb. I know I was really excited when I crossed up the signals on the 40106 with the TL074 it screamed. WEll to really get it to scream jack up every control to max. Then twiddle the bends. But be careful some stuff will do icky things. I also had the output flowing back in for feedback but ended up nearly exploding my ears (forgot to turn mixer down), I need to make a list of all the tweaks I want to do for this thing. I sorta just spit this stuff out willy nilly and then forget about it due to the amount of work getting my modules out. I am basically torturing Dr. Bleep right now with all this same type of stuff coming up with crazy crap for the new Thingamaboop 2. MY grand plan is to glom all of these things together into some borg thingy.\n</p>\n','2009-12-09 04:09:49','74.244.221.28',0,11),(216,3,10,16,'<p>Ohh still trying to trace down what all the BO(x) labels do on the board. I traced the circuit and I think I know but I want to be sure and using a ghetto scope sucks since my Tek decided to eat itself. There are several through holes that dont seem to really serve as vias but more for spots for things to be intentionally put there. (Mainly since a via hole is tiny)\n</p>\n','2009-12-09 04:13:27','74.244.221.28',0,12),(217,3,10,16,'<p>Well fiddling a little more before I finally sit down and get these new module specs written is I was able to get 2 and 3 of the modules to cross mod. It can go from ok sounding to horrible quickly. But I used the most primitive non-invasive (meaning I did not leave it on the board) way. Now my fingers are tore to pieces from sliding along solder joints for a few hours....\n</p>\n','2009-12-09 04:29:11','74.244.221.28',0,13),(218,3,10,5,'<p>more proto space! I know! :-)<br />\n Yes, the BO points are break out points. We put them before and after every block we had room for. Board space is really the issue here. We packed that thing about as tight as we could. That\'s actually why it\'s so hard to get the power jack in. We had to squeeze it so we could fit the little proto area thats there.<br />\nOn a side note, I developed a simple LED Drone monitor light... then hooked an LDR to that and used it to control the BPF. It\'s freakin amazing. really.... Schematics soon. I promise.\n</p>\n','2009-12-09 05:32:23','67.248.19.168',0,14),(219,3,10,16,'<p>This is probably a mangled mess of my current thoughts on what I am doing with drone lab.....</p>\n<p>odd you mention the more proto space. That was in my original post that seems to be gone. It had my original post about bending the 40106 and the TL074. And about the modification underway to the enclosure for some of my mods to be a bit more permanent that just crap I hook up and rip off. Its no big deal if it cannot be recovered I think I have rehashed what it said. I got a lot of plans for this little board you made Pete. I need to talk to you about them and organize my thoughts on where to move first. I have now taken several kits decided what I like about each and am making an amalgam of them. But, I was going to use your board as its base. The entire thing will be able to be broke apart into discreet pieces or slapped together as one big unit. Thats why I was wondering about the break out points. You think you could post here or email me what each of the BO0-BO6 or whatever it is up to what each break out represents as in which functional block. I notice at each BO spot there is two holes. IN the schematics I did not see much. Maybe I missed something. I did not look around to see if there were board screen images or gerbers.</p>\n<p>I got to figure out a way to glom on these new functional blocks to the existing board and enclosure. I dont want to make this huge nightmare of a mess. I was thinking of slipping another board below the current one and for controls right now i am making thin strips of pcb that will run down each side anchored by the bolts holding your enclosure. One strip is just copper touch pads that run to all good pend spots with lots in reserve. The other...I dunno yet. For patches once I understand the blocks and how the BO work I may just bore holes into the plexi and add jacks. Sorta not the best but I hate making new cases. I always resort to cigar boxes :) Like I said in the end I am glomming a bunch of kits together into some unholy mess. I may end up adding it to my suitcase synth I have been piddling with. It has one one side a MFOS sound lab ultimate + a kludge of several CGS boards like you did (master divider, pulse divider + boolean + xor) that new unholy mangle of stuff might be a cool addition it would fit nicely above the TKB performance section I was going to build for the suitcase.\n</p>\n','2009-12-09 07:33:14','74.244.221.28',0,15),(220,1,25,6,'<p>I\'d just like to point out that the faceplate dimensions say 7\" across. But the PCB itself is something like a little bit over 6 and a half inches across. 6 and 5/9 inches, maybe. Obviously the faceplate overhangs the edges a little bit.\n</p>\n','2009-12-09 17:06:09','98.216.153.236',0,3),(221,3,10,5,'<p>the Break out points come in groups of two because I was thinking you could cut the lead between them and then one would be an OUT from the previous block and the other an IN to the next block. Make sense?\n</p>\n','2009-12-09 17:13:17','67.248.19.168',0,16),(222,3,10,16,'<p>Yes thats exactly what I wanted to hear casper! I am doing the best I can looking at the silkscreen and then looking at the two solder masks you have on the site Trying to figure out where each of the breakouts go to, as in which functional block do they represent. If there is any way of getting the info a quicker way (as I said my scope is dead) that would be awesome. I could have some crude patch points in then as soon as I know. That would at least let me stick stuff in the signal chain. Also noticed a lot of unlabled holes around certain areas for example down in the pots area there are 4 or 5 vertically stacked. Around the 40106 there is a few in a row and somewhere around the Op-Amp I noticed some. These were not sized as vias so I did not know what they were and they had no silk screen legend. So basically right now I am using the board that is soldered and a bit hard to see all the traces now and the two front and back solder masks to try to divine what the purposes are. Am hoping to have the copper clad touch strip ready tonight. If I can learn what all the extra points do and what the breakouts do I can maybe @_@ have a video by this weekend of some ideas and then I will try to document the junk I did and make schematics and give them to you Casper to let you decide if I did naughty or nice things and let you give them out. I got to get a tub of 40106s in. I got tons of the 4xxx series cmos chips but am out of that certain one.\n</p>\n','2009-12-09 19:13:55','97.66.94.178',0,17),(223,3,10,16,'<p>Oh, casper on your LDR thing you did. Cool trick that you probably already knew was if you want to change response times sorta like getting different vactrols i.e 2 or 3 etc I found soldering different sized caps to the legs of the led is cool. Can change how slow the LED returns to off state.\n</p>\n','2009-12-09 19:16:16','97.66.94.178',0,18),(224,3,10,16,'<p>also if you want the worlds coolest vactrol...look no further Grant Richter (the Wiard guy) http://www.musicsynthesizer.com/Hairball/hairball.html I started thinking that one would work awesome for drone lab each led ran by a oscillator including the clock one. Of course got to make  few of those.\n</p>\n','2009-12-09 21:11:20','97.66.94.178',0,19),(225,3,10,16,'<p>Ok tell me casper if this seems right:</p>\n<p>BO1: is point between low pass and the distortion<br />\nBO2: is between distortion and the output and the line going to band pass<br />\nBO3: is pre band pass filter 1<br />\nBO4: is pre band pass filter 2<br />\nBO5: is post band pass filter 1<br />\nBO6: is post band pass filter 2<br />\nBO7: Cannot find it<br />\nBO8: Connects mixed signals to low pass Its the holes beneath TL074 and to the left of TL074 next to C6 and R4</p>\n<p>Sound about right?\n</p>\n','2009-12-09 23:18:42','74.244.221.28',0,20),(226,1,25,4,'<p>Yes it does! The board dimensions I believe are 8\" X 6.625\". The enclosure is a bit wider to reinforce the strength of the plastic piece on the right of the battery hole.\n</p>\n','2009-12-10 00:29:19','24.92.54.69',0,4),(227,3,10,5,'<p>Hey analoguebus,<br />\nsorry for not getting back sooner. The BO points are listed in the schematic:<br />\nhttp://casperelectronics.com/images/finishedpieces/droner/V2/DroneSchematic.jpg<br />\nWhat you have listed above seems to be accurate.\n</p>\n','2009-12-10 02:13:59','67.248.19.168',0,21),(228,1,25,6,'<p>Ah, that makes perfect sense. I\'m still puzzling over how to case mine. I am leaning towards some nice dark wood with an etched metal faceplate..\n</p>\n','2009-12-10 13:31:24','98.216.153.236',0,5),(229,3,10,16,'<p>More rambling from me :)</p>\n<p>The one question I had is on the schematic I did not see a BO7 so maybe it doesnt exist and then on the board it seems BO8 is largely unlabeled and just want to make sure I have it right that its that cluster of 4 holes around the TL074 on the bottom to left side the top and right side contain a lot of the pre/post for bandpass. I found the perfect spot for this board to fit in. I am building up a Lunnetta style CMOS synth, real hardcore with mainly all the CMOS pins exposed very little circuitry etc (almost like one of those extremely nice electronic trainers). This will be a nice set of oscillators for it. That also solved hat is going into the other side of my suitcase synth across from the big ol clocking system like yours casper and the MFOS soundlab ultimate.\n</p>\n','2009-12-10 14:48:01','97.66.94.178',0,22),(230,4,44,28,'<p>Here\'s what I put up today, intended as an overview of sorts and also has eric archer\'s dronematrix inputed.  sound of course sucks as its not off the board but off the canon powershot 610\'s pin mike. So it missess some of that nice JBL boom. I\'ve given up hand held camera work and use a cheap $9 tripod.</p>\n<p>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S5zrTFV9ZZg</p>\n<p>Having some issues embedding video.  drop me a line if there are tricks, I get this message but don\'t understand it. Allowed markup: a blockquote code em strong ul ol li.<br />\nPut code in between <code>backticks</code>\n</p>\n','2009-12-11 01:30:54','24.68.132.40',0,1),(231,4,44,5,'<p>Sealion.<br />\nGreat video! I like the explanation! Thanks for putting that up. You seem to have grasped the general drone technique. Making a drone is best as an additive process. You start with ONE tone and slowly add in the others one at a time. It\'s especially important when you have 2 of them so you don\'t get lost! Great work!!!\n</p>\n','2009-12-11 01:48:00','67.248.19.168',0,2),(232,1,45,12,'<p>http://www.bsom.org/?p=163</p>\n<p>Touching-up the face panel file to fit my build.  I removed the 9v battery hole and designed my own Drone Lab logo.  I\'m also gonna add holes for the LED\'s since I most likely will not use a transparent/translucent faceplate material.\n</p>\n','2009-12-11 02:38:07','173.64.108.129',0,1),(233,4,44,28,'<br />\n','2009-12-11 03:18:46','24.68.132.40',0,3),(234,1,45,4,'<p>This is awesome! I\'m glad you found the template useful and did something new with this wooden faceplate.\n</p>\n','2009-12-11 04:58:19','24.92.54.69',0,2),(235,1,45,6,'<p>Yeah looks nice. Will look great in wood. Wish I knew somebody with a lasercutter...  The only drawback in your design would appear to be not being able to see the pretty blinking lights. This has been one of the biggest conundrums in me figuring out how to case mine. I\'ve replaced my red power LED with a green one and the tremolo rate LED with a super-brite blue LED. One idea I have been toying with is using some sort of clear plastic above the LEDs to channel the light fiber-optic style to the surface of the case.</p>\n<p>Interesting what you mention about the tremolo rate knob hole being smaller... you appear to be correct.\n</p>\n','2009-12-11 13:33:15','98.216.153.236',0,3),(236,4,44,6,'<p><em>Markup</em> <strong>is</strong></p>\n<ol>like</ol>\n<ul>simple HTML formatting for message boards.</ul>\n<p>You put brackets \'&lt;\' &amp; \'&gt;\' around the first expression at the beginning of the item you\'d like to format and then a slash bracketed expression at the end to close it. Or something like that. I don\'t think we are allowed to embed anything on this forum. It\'s a pretty barebones forum.</p>\n<blockquote><p>BTW, loved the video.</p>\n</blockquote>\n','2009-12-11 13:56:21','98.216.153.236',0,4),(237,1,45,27,'<p>could you not solder the leds on their \"tip toes\" if you know what i mean? led legs would surely be long enough to poke through the plate?\n</p>\n','2009-12-11 15:26:54','82.198.136.241',0,4),(238,1,45,6,'<p>Your certainly could. Or perhaps a little bit of wire wouldn\'t add too much interference. Personally... I\'m not totally satisfied with the location of the LEDs on the board. I\'m sure it was more of a matter of convenience, where they were placed. My biggest gripe on the matter would be that the tremolo rate LED is difficult to see from the user\'s perspective, being behind that knob. So I \"tippy toed\" mine, as you say above, when I reinstalled my blue LED into it. Actually broke the red one trying to get it out. C\'est la vie.\n</p>\n','2009-12-11 20:17:27','98.216.153.236',0,5),(239,1,45,5,'<p>Angry:<br />\nWhich version of the faceplate has the smaller \"rate\" hole? Not the physical version you have right? (did you order a faceplate??) That was a mistake in the design that I\'m pretty certain was fixed for the physical models but appears was overlooked on the posted JPEG version of the faceplate design. I\'m updating that right now.\n</p>\n','2009-12-11 20:43:19','67.248.19.168',0,6),(240,1,45,12,'<p>@Angrydroid: About the LED\'s not showing.  I know they are not visible on this version. I make reference to it in the blog post.  I have yet to put holes for them.</p>\n<p>@Oootini: I use them to keep my LED\'s standing at attention when I need them to be tall:<br />\nhttp://www.keyelco.com/products/prod12.asp?SubCategoryID=57</p>\n<p>@Casper: I started with the AI version that I downloaded about a week ago.  The Rate hole is smaller.  Haven\'t checked lately to see if you changed the AI file.\n</p>\n','2009-12-11 20:55:37','144.126.53.78',0,7),(241,1,45,5,'<p>@bsom:<br />\nall of the faceplate files have been updated as of a few minutes ago\n</p>\n','2009-12-11 21:38:38','67.248.19.168',0,8),(242,1,45,6,'<p>Yeah I was talking about the jpeg version. I like the plexi faceplate but failed to order in time for the limited quantities that seemed to be available. Any chance you might do another run of those? Either way it\'s cool... I like to take my time puzzling over how to case it. One thing that would be cool would be a template for a cardboard case that you could fold around the sides with appropriate holes for the input/outputs. I saw some site with a guy who does just that... though I can\'t recall who it was. He prints up nice little custom cardboard cases which you can download, print, cut-out and fold yourself.</p>\n<p>Something along these lines... http://www.mrlopategui.com/NewFiles/Cereal-Box-Teplate.jpg</p>\n<p>Just a thought...\n</p>\n','2009-12-12 17:14:22','98.216.153.236',0,9),(243,1,45,6,'<p>Or like this: http://ericarcher.net/devices/paperbox/</p>\n<p>(found the link I was looking for finally...)\n</p>\n','2009-12-14 14:18:19','98.216.153.236',0,10),(244,1,45,38,'<p>I\'m going to be casing mine in a wooden box as well and am planning to relocate the LEDs entirely (and replace them with other colors!).\n</p>\n','2009-12-14 19:56:40','75.148.8.86',0,11),(245,1,45,26,'<p>i defennetly recommend replacing leds when casing the drone specially the clock one...which i think it is really out of sight where it\'s placed\n</p>\n','2009-12-14 23:40:52','62.37.165.110',0,12),(246,1,46,35,'<p>Hi to all!</p>\n<p>In order to debug and/or to analyze your Drone Lab modding results, you could use this excellent software based oscilloscope. Give it a look, it\'s free!</p>\n<p>http://www.sillanumsoft.org/prod01.htm\n</p>\n','2009-12-16 18:44:19','93.44.104.223',0,1),(247,1,46,4,'<p>Thank you for this link! I\'ve messed around a little with the Drone Lab using a single voice with its pitch at mid range. This is truly a snazzy and useful program for filter design etc. </p>\n<p>http://dl.dropbox.com/u/605877/spectrum.GIF<br />\nhttp://dl.dropbox.com/u/605877/waveform.GIF\n</p>\n','2009-12-17 04:07:53','24.92.54.69',0,2),(248,1,47,38,'<p>I put off placing my Digikey order until after I\'d done all the other stuff and now Digikey is out of the 1M pots.  I guess all Dronelab builders must have bought them out :0 I\'m sure others have run into this problem also.  Has anyone else identified alternate pots to use that will fit into the PCB?\n</p>\n','2009-12-17 15:29:21','98.204.26.226',0,1),(249,1,47,5,'<p>@madstringbean.<br />\nYeah I didn\'t think this would be as much of a problem as it has been.<br />\nit looks like mouser also carries these parts... but is also out. Both are due to restock in january I believe. At some point we are probably going to buy the pots in bulk from the distributor and sell them through our site. For now, you just have to sit tight for a few weeks.\n</p>\n','2009-12-18 07:13:36','67.248.19.168',0,2),(250,1,20,7,'<p>I\'m trying to source all my parts from Jameco (which is very near my house...free shipping) and DigiKey (which seems to be the only place that carries the board-mounted battery holder). Neither carries the exact model of LED that\'s on the BOM, what are the most important variables in LEDs...voltage? Current? Brightness? Size?\n</p>\n','2009-12-19 11:51:05','76.14.27.106',0,18),(251,1,48,32,'<p>Hello!</p>\n<p>I uploaded a song on my myspace made with Dronelab and Live, let me know if you like (and if it is ugly)!</p>\n<p>The myspace is new, ask the friendship!<br />\nwww.myspace.com/urbansm</p>\n<p>Tnx!\n</p>\n','2009-12-19 14:46:10','78.13.129.94',0,1),(252,1,20,6,'<p>clarke68, I would have to say size is the key factor here. the LEDs on the Drone Lab are fairly small 3mm ones. i\'ve swapped out the power and tremolo LEDs with a dimmer and brighter green and blue 3mm LED respectively and everything works fine.\n</p>\n','2009-12-19 19:35:07','98.216.153.236',0,19),(253,1,20,7,'<p>Good news, thanks. There are tons of LEDs available in the 3mm T1 size, all I have to do is figure out what colors I want!\n</p>\n','2009-12-20 01:58:33','76.14.27.106',0,20),(254,1,48,5,'<p>Hey! nice recording. Do you have anymore?\n</p>\n','2009-12-23 00:17:35','67.248.19.168',0,2),(255,1,48,32,'<p>not yet, I spent two days to change the space ... poor system of templates ...</p>\n<p>however I plan other tracks that will make up a concept album, I will update on new developments soon!\n</p>\n','2009-12-23 13:02:59','130.192.181.148',0,3),(256,3,49,5,'<p>I just found this schematic on the electro-music DIY forum. It shows a VERY simple method for adding cv control of the oscillators in the 40106 chip. All of the oscillators n the DRone Lab are generated using a 40106. If you have questions about this schematic, please post below and I\'ll try to help.</p>\n<p>http://electro-music.com/forum/phpbb-files/40106vco_954.png\n</p>\n','2009-12-29 07:07:08','67.248.19.168',0,1),(257,3,49,5,'<p>There\'s some discussion about this schematic on the forum. It\'s pretty helpful.<br />\nhttp://electro-music.com/forum/topic-28799.html\n</p>\n','2009-12-29 07:08:19','67.248.19.168',0,2),(258,3,50,5,'<p>All of the oscillators in the Drone Lab start out as square waves. They go through a series of filters and distortion circuits which shape them in various ways, but they start as square waves. That means they are basically digital logic signals (high-low) and can be processed by digital logic ICs VERY easily and with some VERY cool results.<br />\nFor instance running two oscillators into an AND or XOR circuit can create some really cool ring mod-like effects. Running an oscillator into a counter like the 4017 can give you sub octave oscillator outputs.<br />\nThere is a community of folks developing digital logic audio circuits for a project called the Lunetta synth. I definitely recommend you check out the Lunetta forum on the electro-music DIY forums.<br />\nhttp://electro-music.com/forum/forum-160.html</p>\n<p>The oscillators in the Drone Lab are generated using a 40106 hex schmitt trigger IC. This is a popular IC in the Lunetta community and people have posted lots of schematics for how to use the 40106 in different ways.</p>\n<p>One of the cool things about digital logic ICs is that they require little to no extra components to use. You don\'t need lots of resistors and caps, just the IC. Which means you can fit a logic IC in the Drone Lab\'s little proto area.\n</p>\n','2009-12-29 21:51:11','67.248.19.168',0,1),(259,1,51,31,'<p>Just finished the housing for the dronelab yesterday!, finished the case a few weeks ago, but the faceplate was the longest part.  Basically it\'s an image I \"found\" somewhere (where, I can\'t remember but thankyou to whoever is responsible for the original artwork, it\'s suitably \"cosmic\").  Then I put it all together in photoshop, printed it on photographic paper, laminated it, then found some hole punches of roughly the correct size (which was the longest part).  It came together nicely, plus I can also print out a new faceplate if I get bored of this one.  Excuse the photos, I found it a bit of a challenge to take pictures of a laminated surface, but I think you get the point.</p>\n<p>http://www.flickr.com/photos/29758910@N08/4226984850/  </p>\n<p>http://www.flickr.com/photos/29758910@N08/4226212319/</p>\n<p>http://www.flickr.com/photos/29758910@N08/4226221631/</p>\n<p>http://www.flickr.com/photos/29758910@N08/4226226465/</p>\n<p>Now I\'ll have to get round to finishing off some recordings too.\n</p>\n','2009-12-30 00:34:11','118.209.25.83',0,1),(260,2,52,39,'<p>Hi,</p>\n<p>I was rushing in my excitement to finish what was a really fun (albeit challenging) build and didn\'t pay attention to matching the DIP sockets polarity (put another way, I put 3 of them in the wrong way round), the IC\'s are in correctly so will it work in the AM? I\'m done for the night so don\'t feel like desoldering the sockets now and if I don\'t have to then I\'ll be a happy guy.</p>\n<p>Cheers.\n</p>\n','2009-12-30 02:52:26','68.198.141.33',0,1),(261,2,52,12,'<p>No sweat.  It will work fine.  The sockets themselves don\'t really have a polarity.  The notches are simply an indicator for the polarity of the chips.  As long as you put the chips in facing the right way, you\'re golden.\n</p>\n','2009-12-30 03:18:39','173.64.108.129',0,2),(262,1,51,4,'<p>Hey, excellent work! I like the modular faceplate concept, and the wood sides look really nice!\n</p>\n','2009-12-30 15:09:02','74.75.98.43',0,2),(263,2,52,4,'<p>I agree with bsom, it should work just fine as long as the solder joints are solid! Good luck on finishing the build!\n</p>\n','2009-12-30 15:17:29','74.75.98.43',0,3),(264,2,52,39,'<p>Thanks fellas, it works great! I\'ve only had a chance to play a little with it. </p>\n<p>Some lessons learned on my part (aside from the title of this post) are to pace yourself, 8 hours soldering is a heavy load and to use a fine gauge solder .032\" or so, I started with a heavier gauge wire and it made it tough as the board got fuller.\n</p>\n','2009-12-30 21:27:44','68.198.141.33',0,4),(265,1,51,5,'<p>ha! that looks awesome!\n</p>\n','2009-12-31 04:59:10','67.248.19.168',0,3),(266,3,53,5,'<p>The big feature I\'m working on right now is Drone generated light modulation.<br />\nI\'ve built up some prototypes using 2 oscillators, next i need to experiment with all 4. The image below shows how the over lapping waveforms can be used as an LED modulating PWM signal.</p>\n<p>http://casperelectronics.com/images/finishedpieces/droner/V2/light/pulseMethods.jpg</p>\n<p>Combining the waves together by various mathematical means gives you a few different kinds of PWM (pulse width modulation) signals. You can use a PWM signal to control the brightness of LEDs.<br />\nAdding is convenient because it takes minimal components and you can add several waves together, but the effect is a 50%-100% cycle modulation. In order to get a full LED fade (from full brightness to off) you need a 100%-0% spread. </p>\n<p>This can be achieved pretty well with 2 waves through an XOR (exclusive OR) gate.<br />\n I\'m thinking it might be cool to install a quad 2 input XOR gate IC in the Drone Lab and derive 4 different pulsing LEDs based on the relationship of various oscillators.</p>\n<p>The next step after getting the pulsing LEDs is took hook up a series of LDRs (light sensitive resistors) to the filters and distortion and using the pulsing drone to modulate the amount of different effects. I tried it with the band pass filter and it sounds amazing.</p>\n<p>I don\'t know if any of that makes sense, but there it is. I\'ll add schematics and video as soon as it\'s available.\n</p>\n','2009-12-31 05:20:35','67.248.19.168',0,1),(267,1,51,6,'<p>Beautiful!\n</p>\n','2009-12-31 15:23:53','98.216.153.236',0,4),(268,3,49,32,'<p>mmm seems to be useful thread, my knowledge in electronics is limited, have you a schematics for apply this change to dronelab?\n</p>\n','2010-01-01 02:31:49','84.220.162.149',0,3),(269,1,51,32,'<p>What material is the faceplate? how did you make the oval holes? nice work!\n</p>\n','2010-01-01 02:36:13','84.220.162.149',0,5),(270,2,52,4,'<p>Congrats on the successful build! I hope you enjoy playing with it!\n</p>\n','2010-01-01 06:08:33','68.116.170.239',0,5),(271,1,51,31,'<p>Thanks for the positive feedback!, urbanspaceman: the faceplate is just an image printed on some thick photographic paper, then I punched out holes for the leds, then laminated the whole thing, then punched out the rest of the holes (this way the led\'s light can get through, but still be covered)  It doesn\'t need to be structurally strong, just enough to keep it\'s shape when it rests on the switches (the highest point).  I just used a 5mm hole punch from a art supplies/fabric place for the leds &amp; oval holes (just punched out the top, then the bottom, then used a sharp knife to cut out the middle bit left over in the oval centre).  Had to use a larger custom made hole punch for all the large knobs.\n</p>\n','2010-01-02 01:18:47','118.209.79.158',0,6),(272,3,49,5,'<p>The link in my first post shows the schematic, but I imagine you want one that shows explicitly how to apply this to the drone lab right? I\'m sure you\'re not alone. Hopefully I\'ll be able to get to that soon. It\'s on my list of things to do\n</p>\n','2010-01-02 01:20:21','67.248.19.168',0,4),(273,3,49,31,'<p>This does look good, I just have to work out the schematics (still a bit of a novice myself with this)\n</p>\n','2010-01-02 01:22:03','118.209.79.158',0,5),(274,3,49,16,'<p>I hope this makes sense because I am very sleepy, and also now I have several drone style boards on bench and I tend to mix them together in head. But, Casper\'s Drone Lab i GREAT. Lots of fun. Oh, and you can REALLY REALLY screw up the sound coming out of it, beyond using the normal controls, I have had mine bent to where oscillators are modding other oscillators or shorting a path between the tremolo oscillator, the bandpass and any random oscillator, I can get growls, rumbles, ear piercing squeals, flange sounds, also what my sons call farty sounds. I hope one day life will not be so hectic and I can document (unlike below) some nice mods and give them to casper and he can decide to post them after he decides if they are crap or not. Main problem is time lately. I am also trying to release my sound toys (I noticed how Casper mentioned Lunetta :) well think along those lines....well not really Lunetta but lots of CD4000 series CMOS, then going to other end of spectrum and a module that uses a ARM proc along with a DSP, fun fun)</p>\n<p>Oh another caveat. If you don\'t want a bunch of jacks but do want some fun with CV changes on the individual oscillators you can make a patch system to send the output of any osc to the input of any other osc for great fun :). Working on a diagram and instructions for hard sync also but its a bit more involved. (HEHE remember there is a left over oscillator :) ). Two switches, the left over osc and two diodes and you are in business :) Ok I will quit blabbering and give my meager instructions to the schematic above.</p>\n<p>Basically the easy way to do it is this way....(I suppose).<br />\n1. If you want attenuation of the incoming CV signal you are going to be stuck with just positive bias. The problem is the PSU is not designed with negative voltages. Otherwise you can do like they did in schematic and have it bias the signal bipolar.</p>\n<p>So to do this first part: run a +9v line to an outer leg of a 100k pot. On the opposite side run the leg to ground. From the center leg of the pot run a 100k resistor. This we will call section (a).</p>\n<p>2. Get a jack be it banana, 1/8\", 1/4\", whatever floats your boat. Run from the tip connection of it to a 100k resistor. Call the section (b)</p>\n<p>3. Get a 2.2k resistor run it to ground. Call this section (c)</p>\n<p>4. take the unconnected ends of section a,b,c hook them together and run it into the base leg of a 3906 transistor (can be any type PNP resistor you can get, radio shack has a bunch).</p>\n<p>5. From the emitter leg run it to BOTH the base of a 3904 NPN transistor (once again any type will do) and also run it to a 100k resistor that then connects to +9v.</p>\n<p>6. on the 3904NPN transistor, on the emitter run it to ground.</p>\n<p>7. on the 3904NPN transistor, on the collector HERES WHERE THE FUN STARTS!</p>\n<p>Basically this is 1 CV input. You have 4 oscillators to run it to (also got lots of other fun spots to run it to, but thats for later. Casper basically (I think if i remember) has the basic oscillator setup for the 40106 setup. basically it involves using a capacitor and a resistor in a loop between the in and the out. You want to leave all this alone. All you need to do to add your cool new CV in is attach the collector of the 3904NPN transistor to the in on the 40106.These would be pins 1,3,5,9,11,13. One of the oscillators on the 40106 is not used on the Drone lab (crazy fun you can use this for later :)). One is used for the tremolo.</p>\n<p>I hope this made sense and did not confuse anyone. This by the way is for exponential control over the 40106.\n</p>\n','2010-01-02 07:31:25','74.244.221.28',0,6),(275,3,50,16,'<p>Digital ICs from the CD4000 series CMOS are great fun and CHEAP to add. And, quite easy! Just remember to not leave the input legs on the chips floating kids! But yeah one cool trick you can do (hope Tom Bugs doesn\'t mind). You can have cascading ring mods. Basically take osc 1 and osc 2 and with two diodes, 2 100k resistors a 4011 cmos chip and a 47k resistor on the output and you have just ring modded osc 1 and 2 together. Now here is the fun. Do the same exact thing to 3 &amp; 4. The take the two outputs from those two ring mods and ring mod them again. This is akin to what Tom does on his Weevil boards he RMs osc 1 and osc 2 then takes the output of that RM and RMs it with osc 3. You could also get you a 4069 or another 40106 and make an envelope follower with just a few items and feed it into  one of the CVs that I probably expounded too much on in caspers CV article on forum. Another cool one to do as a cool addon to the drone lab this one takes a few more parts not much but a few, you could with two 4007 chips and a 40106 add pulse width modulation to each of the oscillators. Couple this with CV inputs and you can have some wild sounds. Lots of these things can be made into small building blocks like Casper is proposing to do, it would just require a bit of fiddling with the main board to add CV in/outs in a few places and then use his break out spots on the board. :( too bad he just made a new super duper cool board , i think i saw with more nooks and crannies to mangle) Also one really cool thing to add, but a little complex is IR synching. This will allow drone lab to keep its clock in synch with a lot of Eric Archers Andromeda space rockers and also 4ms has one that is CRAZY cool called the autonomous bassline generator (I caan attest it makes a great addon to the drone!)  With the IR Synch all devices keep the same beat by sending and receiving IR light pulses. If people are wanting lots and lots more CMOS ideas that let you get wild sounds on the cheap look in the electro forums group or write me a message here I might be able to help. For my project I have amassed about 70 different little doodads I will be putting out. Sorry cant give out too much info yet :( Ohhh...I will quit rambling I promise, one REALLY cool thing to do with your outputs on the drone lab is add a (this takes a add on board for each oscillator but its worth it!) a complex waveform generator. So instead of plain jane square waves you can seriously mess it up. Basically with each output of 40106 you add two more chips and 8 (EIGHT!!) 10k pots.</p>\n<p>Have fun folks! I am trying to with crazy schedule. I only get to work on this stuff at night. So basically I never sleep now :)\n</p>\n','2010-01-02 07:56:14','74.244.221.28',0,2),(276,3,49,27,'<p>@ analogbus, what would happen if the above cv control was placed on the tremelo oscillator?\n</p>\n','2010-01-04 10:50:32','82.198.136.241',0,7),(277,3,49,16,'<p>oootini, same as the others modulate its speed/pitch but it would make tracking on the drones from the tremolo hard I think because of this: I dunno if its just me and i have done bad things but the tremolo is very very picky for the four drone oscillators. They have to dialed in exactly to get good animation and the clock speed of tremolo cant be crazy high or the drone tremolo oscillators don\'t track. I do not think casper did not do anything wrong I just think it may be the nature of the beast with sending the tremolo clock which I think if i remember has a very narrow pulse width off to the 2 556 chips they then generate your 4 channels of drone clocks. The tremolo oscillator acts as the ummm \"gas pedal\" to kick the 556 chips in the butt. I may be wrong and probably am. But long winded tangent over yes it will modulate the tremolo oscillator like all others</p>\n<p>BTW Casper has given you a great way to modulate the clock. All you need to do is feed in a pretty narrow pulse (heck any wave, but it gets unpredictable or flat stops) to the clock in from your modular etc. In fact with the in/out/through you can do like MIDI and have a bunch of drones clocking off the same clock signal. Very clever of him, as always I am quite jealous of his keen abilities.\n</p>\n','2010-01-04 21:23:33','97.66.94.178',0,8),(278,3,49,32,'<p>]but I imagine you want one that shows explicitly how to apply this to the drone lab right?[</p>\n<p>Yes, you got the problem!\n</p>\n','2010-01-07 13:16:08','130.192.181.148',0,9),(279,3,49,16,'<p>urbanspaceman: The instructions I wrote apply directly to the Drone lab. If you want and Casper doesn\'t mind I can make a PDF of his schematic and board graphic and show where it would be applied using my step by step guide above. In the guide I can then show clearly how to do normal or exponential CV control, CV control of other parts also. In fact I may go ahead and make it with a bunch of schematics and howtos to add other bits of logic. For example it would not be hard to add an enhanced distortion, fuzz block, or a set of LFOs that can be used with the new CV inputs to animate controls, a phased mixer using 4 photocells (this one is really cool and simple and the dronelab is already setup to basically do it), ring mod or like Tom Bugs Weevil cascading ring mods (on the drone lab it would be ring mod drone 1 and drone 2 and then be able to ring mod drone 3 and drone 4, then be able to take the outputs of both of those ring mods and ring mod them together, the stacking effect is quite neat), also voltage starving (works GREAT with the 40106), touch plates for certain bend points I found, there are many other things that can be done and I can show hints on how to do it, like another cool one is to put a envelope follower into the signal chain. A lot of these would require satellite boards to go with drone lab because of lack of space. I think Casper had an idea about this. I got the way I am going to do it but its a bit radical in change.</p>\n<p>Ok once again I find myself running my mouth too long, sorry for that. Tell me if you want any of this, right now my time is a bit limited but I can easily at minimum do the CV control howto PDF this weekend. The only limitation will be how many CV inputs you want and where you wish to place them. If you are going to use a 1/4\" jack and want to use the prototype area you are only going to be able to fit one. If you use the prototype area to solder in flying wires and then drill holes in your case for a bunch of jacks you can do that too. Oh, and if you want attenuation (which is nice but not totally needed) you will need an area to put a pot. You can use a pot that sticks out the back that solders into the prototyping area.\n</p>\n','2010-01-07 14:11:22','97.66.94.178',0,10),(280,3,49,5,'<p>@analoguebus.<br />\nIf you are inclined to make up some drawings, PLEASE DO! I will gladly post them on my site.\n</p>\n','2010-01-09 05:15:09','67.248.19.168',0,11),(281,3,49,16,'<p>Ok Casper, I will do it this weekend as soon as I finish my new synth breadboard system, a bit like your FX proto board. I need to post a pic it really turned out nice. It is one of those big powered breadboards with the two lcds to show voltage on positive and negative rails and the has a +5v then I added a long piece of L bent steel attached via Velcro to each side to match top height. Reason I used Velcro so was I can quick change the sides (sorta). Right now it has 10 1M pots, 10 10k pots (for my wave shaping 40106, 2 500k two 1k one of them log, a few other random pots, 10 push buttons, 10 toggles, 4 3.5mm jacks, 4 banana + 1 banana ground, 4 6.5 jacks (all jacks can be discreet or normalled to act as interfaces, it has 5 endless encoders, a small dip switch section with 2 8 switch dip switches to control sequencers, it had leds I got to add them back, 2 12 position rotary knobs, and then in front of the breadboard is a big etched copper contact plate with 41 contacts. I think thats it. I got to finish wiring some of the parts and come up with better harnesses for the pots so they stay out of way (right now I think I am going to make female pin headers to cable to male pin headers so i can remove them. I have then started making for the drone lab instructional pdfs (btw do you want it all in one pdf or a pdf per project?) these stackable breakout jacks for the main chips you remove chip from jack insert this breakout jack between and plug back in chip. This makes it where you do not have to do any soldering (well as little as possible) while messing with the bends/mods/whacko ideas. The only soldering I am having to do with this type of board is cutting the traces between the BO points and making a header in proto area to test different things.</p>\n<p>The projects I was going to try to have done for the PDFs for you are the following (All Drone Lab specific):<br />\n1. touch points for the drone lab.<br />\n2. Adding patching jacks<br />\n3. Adding CV control for (xyz)<br />\n4. Using CMOS chips or op-amps whatever you have around to make multi waveform LFOs<br />\n5. CMOS ring mod and ring mod cascades with the 4 drones<br />\n6. CMOS sequencer for the new CVs you can have<br />\n7. Fun with Vactrols<br />\n8. Voltage starve with both pot and photoresistors<br />\n9. Complex sounds part 1: CMOS cascaded 4093 with feedback<br />\n10. Complex sounds part 2: modify mixer into phased mixer<br />\n11. Complex sounds part 3: High quality distortion circuit + fuzz<br />\n12. Input modifications: Tremelo, compressor/limiter, expander, gate and ducker, pitch tracker, envelope follower (all thee can be used with patches from internal oscillators also)<br />\n13. Simple CMOS divider tricks: Oscillator sub harmonics, clock divider<br />\n14. Complex sounds part 4: Turn the square waves for drones into complex waveforms (wavetable) with a single 4017 CMOS chips and 10 10k pots/sliders (sliders are cool for graphical waveform look)<br />\n15. Complex sounds: (borrowing a idea from triwave)3 \"colored\" LFOs for each oscillator that has 4 depth knobs for each osc, a speed/pitch knob, symmetry knob and waveform knob. With this system I can also cross modulate each oscillator (without it sounding too noisy)</p>\n<p>These sound quite difficult but all of them are silly easy as Casper suggested in the CMOS magic mod posting. Most of them require a single chip, sometimes they are a little more complex.</p>\n<p>I have all the schematics for these 14 mod PDFs, I just need to take pictures of all of them breadboarded up so it makes a bit more sense, and I need to improve my writing skills a bit to put in step by step guides.</p>\n<p>Hopefully I will get some done this weekend. Along with guides on how to \"safely\" get your Drone Lab prepared for this type of monkeying around.</p>\n<p>Thanks<br />\nBryan<br />\nanaloguebus\n</p>\n','2010-01-13 11:57:38','97.66.94.178',0,12),(282,3,49,5,'<p>@analoguebus.<br />\nThat sounds awesome! I\'m really excited to see your schematics!!!\n</p>\n','2010-01-15 02:30:53','67.248.19.168',0,13),(283,2,54,4,'<p>The latest revision of the board has been sent with the most recent purchases. The board is essentially the same, only adding two power diodes and an LM7809 voltage regulator. However, the board also allows for breakouts of every trace going to and from the potentiometer section, so the board can be cut in half, or easily configured using flying wires from these breakout holes. Updated documentation is in the works and should be posted soon.\n</p>\n','2010-01-17 21:36:22','67.248.23.108',0,1),(284,2,54,41,'<p>hi chris,<br />\nthanks for your fast shipping,i hope there are no bigger changes than the two diodes and the v.r.<br />\nare all resistors still on the same spot as in your pdf documentation ?<br />\ncheers dani\n</p>\n','2010-01-18 08:02:52','80.218.243.210',0,2),(285,2,35,41,'<p>hello,<br />\njust holding the new v2.1 pcb(nice!) and stuck on c5\'s orientation! if the schematic rev1.8 is correct then plus goes to in vol. and so the cap needs to be flipped,still.(minus to square-hole, plus to round hole.) or am i going totally insane?\n</p>\n','2010-01-18 13:43:06','80.218.243.210',0,3),(286,2,54,4,'<p>Yes, more or less, there were some slight changes, but we\'ve been constructing them based off of the first revision documentation without issue.</p>\n<p>Chris\n</p>\n','2010-01-18 16:09:59','24.92.50.57',0,3),(287,2,35,41,'<p>hello again<br />\nbuilding was quite easy(what a pdf!),and testing quite another thing..<br />\nC5 is kind of funny one and caused some misbehavior of the circuit(great work)and specially the input(no or faint signal).<br />\nso i desoldered, flipped and resoldered it until it was like the printing on the pcb said: square plus,round minus.<br />\ne voilà : we have input and  everything..and the w.s.g still makes sense...<br />\nyipi!<br />\nand sorry for all this fuzz\n</p>\n','2010-01-18 22:22:41','80.218.243.210',0,4),(288,2,34,42,'<p>Hallo,<br />\nI have a small question about drone lab output: is it MONO?<br />\nI mean this synch can work only mono, or it works with STEREO sound?</p>\n<p>thanks\n</p>\n','2010-01-19 08:44:21','78.61.226.105',0,4),(289,2,35,4,'<p>That\'s fine! Great job and congratulations! C5 was fixed in version 2.1!\n</p>\n','2010-01-19 15:06:56','24.92.50.57',0,5),(290,2,34,4,'<p>The Drone Lab is mono! The synch is also mono, but a stereo cable can be used to connect signals to the clock input, as long as they are traveling on the left channel!\n</p>\n','2010-01-19 15:08:40','24.92.50.57',0,5),(291,2,54,4,'<p><a href=\"http://casperelectronics.com/ghostwizard/topic.php?id=5\">First Rev of Board 2.1 Documentation is up!</a>\n</p>\n','2010-01-19 21:49:39','24.92.50.57',0,4),(292,2,54,41,'<p>chris<br />\nguess there is still some trouble on C5 in the new docus, compared to the 2.1 pcb.<br />\nsquare(+) down, round(-)up, it should be.<br />\nor the input won\'t  work!<br />\ni checked my board and C5(-) goes to the center lug of the input-pot. and all works.<br />\nis there something wrong with the schematic?\n</p>\n','2010-01-20 15:18:18','80.218.243.210',0,5),(293,2,34,42,'<p>Thanks, Chris!<br />\nAnd maybe anyone can say, what kind of DIODES are used in DRONE LAB version 1 ? </p>\n<p>I want to do this machine firstly:)</p>\n<p>Thanks.\n</p>\n','2010-01-20 21:34:41','213.164.111.197',0,6),(294,2,54,4,'<p>I don\'t think so, probably just legacy image in the new documentation, I\'ll fix this on the next update.\n</p>\n','2010-01-22 14:00:39','24.92.50.57',0,6),(295,2,34,6,'<p>@smeklius According to the V3 build docs the diodes are 1 8.2V Zener (a voltage regulating diode), 1 4148 (a switching diode)  &amp; 1 1N4001 (a rectifier diode). There are also 6 LEDs which are also diodes but I assume you don\'t mean those. Hope this helps.\n</p>\n','2010-01-22 17:08:11','98.216.153.236',0,7),(296,4,41,6,'<p>I <em>still</em> haven\'t been able to come up with a satisfactory casing for my Drone Lab, though I am playing with the thing daily and certainly love that I am still finding new sounds! I am starting to lean towards hope that more faceplates will be made available at some point. Is this going to be the case at any time in the near future? Would love to see or hear more of what people are doing with their Drone Labs.\n</p>\n','2010-01-22 17:12:37','98.216.153.236',0,4),(297,4,41,6,'<p>Oh and according to the Sugru people... they\'re going to be releasing more again in a much bigger batch.\n</p>\n','2010-01-22 17:13:58','98.216.153.236',0,5),(298,4,41,5,'<p>sugru?\n</p>\n','2010-01-22 21:23:35','67.248.19.168',0,6),(299,3,50,43,'<p>would it be possible for you to explain more in depth how you would add the last mod, more complex waveforms, to the drone.<br />\nthat sounds awesome.\n</p>\n','2010-01-23 00:59:51','24.79.95.176',0,3),(300,3,50,44,'<p>analoguebus,</p>\n<p>If you could post some more detailed text on just one of your projects for the drone lab and let the community work with it, things could really get started here. Im dying with anticipation tbh. Iv found so much use of the drone lab since i got it. But it feels like it wants more from me.</p>\n<p>-Erik\n</p>\n','2010-01-28 07:28:18','83.254.39.15',0,4),(301,1,55,44,'<p>Last week i finished a drone collection that was made almost entirely with the drone lab. Check it out on soundcloud if you feel like it:</p>\n<p>http://soundcloud.com/erikkallman/sets/field-recordings-12\n</p>\n','2010-01-28 07:34:07','83.254.39.15',0,1),(302,1,55,6,'<p>Cool. I\'ve been fiddling about with soundcloud too and am interested to note that, no matter what I upload, the volume is always pretty un-loud.</p>\n<p>http://soundcloud.com/angrydroid/distorted-drone\n</p>\n','2010-01-28 14:45:23','98.216.153.236',0,2),(303,4,41,6,'<p>Yes. Sugru. It\'s a new moldable material for DIY-type stuff.</p>\n<p>Anyhoo. Back to my question, any plans for releasing more faceplates for Drone Lab?\n</p>\n','2010-01-28 14:50:08','98.216.153.236',0,7),(304,1,55,27,'<p>it\'s as loud as your system volume control...\n</p>\n','2010-01-28 16:00:21','82.198.136.241',0,3),(305,2,54,45,'<p>Hi Chris,<br />\n2 months ago i ordered a dronelab with the faceplate. During the soldering process i had some problems so i decided to order a new pcb to build a new one with a better soldering iron etc...<br />\nToday i received a new pcb \"the 2.1 version\" but i find that the faceplate don\'t feet with this new pcb!!<br />\nI\'m very sad about that i hope you can make something to save me!!!!<br />\nbest<br />\nJulien\n</p>\n','2010-01-28 18:07:50','82.247.140.238',0,7),(306,1,55,27,'<p>her\'s a drone what i done. haven\'t had a chance to play with it since really.</p>\n<p>http://soundcloud.com/oootini/drone-1\n</p>\n','2010-01-28 19:32:48','188.141.25.215',0,4),(307,2,54,7,'<p>Hey Julien,</p>\n<p>I have a v2.0 board that I haven\'t started soldering yet...I\'d love to trade with you. I built a custom enclosure for mine that is just a tiny bit too small...the ability to cut the board in half on the new ones would be a huge life saver for me. </p>\n<p>Let me know if you\'re interested.\n</p>\n','2010-01-29 03:14:37','76.14.27.106',0,8),(308,2,54,45,'<p>Hi Clark68</p>\n<p>I\'m also intereted by trading my 2.1 pcb with your  2.0 pcb<br />\nI live in France i can send my pcb shortly to you<br />\nHere is my Mail adress (julduf@mail.com) you can contact me for the adress etc...<br />\nBest<br />\nJulien\n</p>\n','2010-01-29 09:42:02','88.175.190.54',0,9),(309,1,55,44,'<p>This calls for a dronelab group! Join \"Drone lab music\" if you think its a good idea. Great way to share our stuff.\n</p>\n','2010-01-29 18:09:04','83.254.39.15',0,5),(310,4,41,5,'<p>oh yeah....sugru. I read about that. the face plate process has been slow. I need to find an affordable option. Up till now I\'ve been calling on favors but to produce in any real quantity we need to go with a larger distributor. It WILL happen but may not be for a few more weeks/months.\n</p>\n','2010-02-01 04:37:56','67.246.38.189',0,8),(311,1,55,5,'<p>hey! awesome recordings! I\'ve been away from the forums for about two weeks while I prepared for a show. I did a big drone installation with a pulsing multi color light orb.. here\'s a link with a little info:<br />\nhttp://www.casperelectronics.com/white-light<br />\nanyway, it\'s cool to come back and hear some great recordings.\n</p>\n','2010-02-01 04:48:46','67.246.38.189',0,6),(312,2,54,45,'<p>Hi Clark68,<br />\nAre you always interested by trading your 2.0 pcb with me?<br />\nPlease let me know.<br />\nBest<br />\nJulien\n</p>\n','2010-02-01 18:11:14','82.247.140.238',0,10),(313,2,54,7,'<p>Hey Julian,</p>\n<p>yep...I\'m still interested. Just sent you an email.</p>\n<p>- Clarke\n</p>\n','2010-02-02 14:51:18','76.14.27.106',0,11),(314,3,50,16,'<p>Sorry it has taken so long for me to get PDFs ready :( my wife had to go into hospital for a bit and things have been happening, you know how it is, you get excited working on something cool and suddenly life gets in the way...Well I will def. try to get the first sets of PDFs out sometime in the next week maybe one by end of week. Right now they will be text step by step, schematics, a few breadboard shots (if you have read Nick Collins book then you will understand the format), and finally hopefully a few shots on how I integrated mine only issue there is mine does not look normal anymore so perhaps I may purchase another for those pictures.</p>\n<p>Sorry for the delay on the PDFs!</p>\n<p>Bryan\n</p>\n','2010-02-03 18:26:37','97.66.94.178',0,5),(315,3,49,16,'<p>Sorry it has taken so long for me to get PDFs ready :( my wife had to go into hospital for a bit and things have been happening, you know how it is, you get excited working on something cool and suddenly life gets in the way...Well I will def. try to get the first sets of PDFs out sometime in the next week maybe one by end of week. Right now they will be text step by step, schematics, a few breadboard shots (if you have read Nick Collins book then you will understand the format), and finally hopefully a few shots on how I integrated mine only issue there is mine does not look normal anymore so perhaps I may purchase another for those pictures.</p>\n<p>Sorry for the delay on the PDFs!</p>\n<p>Bryan\n</p>\n','2010-02-03 18:27:08','97.66.94.178',0,14),(316,3,50,43,'<p>hope all is okay with your partner, no fun when stuff like that happens.</p>\n<p>super excited for info though. the drone\'s been just sitting around because i wanted to play with some mods and see what i liked before i started to make a case so they could be incorporated.<br />\nsweet.\n</p>\n','2010-02-06 19:00:22','24.79.83.57',0,6),(317,3,50,44,'<p>Keeping things up when life reminds you your needed elsewhere is hard. Creating a community around the expansion of the drone lab can really make this big.</p>\n<p>Take care<br />\n-Erik\n</p>\n','2010-02-09 20:00:11','83.254.39.15',0,7),(318,2,56,14,'<p>Well, i\'ve just mount my drone lab, and it works well, very happy... But after using it, i can see that the fourth voice led doesn\'t turn on and off at the same time as the other voices... It\"s odd, i don\'t really understand... SO when i want to play with tremolo or inverted phases on each voice, it works great for the 1, 2, 3, but when i use the 4th, it\'s not really the same clock time that i can hear...</p>\n<p>If somebody has an idea, thanks for helping me...\n</p>\n','2010-02-09 22:02:27','90.52.122.37',0,1),(319,2,56,4,'<p>Hm, I haven\'t encountered this problem yet, but I would check the usual suspects, bad solder joints, wrong values of caps or resistors in the 4th oscillator\'s 556 section of the schematic etc. Could you explain a bit more what you mean? When all the divider knobs (green) are turned entirely clockwise, the fourth LED lags considerably? Is the tremolo matching up with the LED?\n</p>\n','2010-02-10 14:45:34','67.248.20.189',0,2),(320,3,53,48,'<p>Casper - Hello, this is my first post here, I ran across the site and I am getting an order in for a Drone Lab board next week.<br />\n     I would love to see your LED modulation schematics and video, I was thinking along the same lines.  I thought about how I want to display the LEDs and had not given thought about the design of the circuit. My idea is to use clear post pots that allow for an LED to be mounted in them. This creates a kick ass looking glow effect under the buttons on the panel. If the LEDs where connected to your circuit each knob could have an LED that could show the effect of the knob in color as well as sound. Here is the part number and description for a 10k pot, Mouser is the supplier:</p>\n<p>RV141F-40-20BL-B10k 14mm Clear Shaft<br />\nPotentiometers 20mm LINDER 10K PC mount</p>\n<p>Using these would require that the circuits currently running under any pot be routed outside of the pots footprint.\n</p>\n','2010-02-11 20:09:44','67.128.27.233',0,2),(321,1,55,50,'<p>here\'s my first mess with it<br />\nhttp://soundcloud.com/pegasourous/left-drone\n</p>\n','2010-02-15 22:47:45','79.97.167.31',0,7),(322,1,55,44,'<p>Now that was inspiring if something. Make me want to order a tube VCA kit and get that stuff going.\n</p>\n','2010-02-16 22:40:37','83.254.39.15',0,8),(323,1,55,51,'<p>Here\'s a short clip show on vimeo of my newly finished DroneLab: http://vimeo.com/9507027</p>\n<p>It\'s a really nice little machine and it has a wider range of possibilities than i thought.  Please note that the casing is just a provisional solution as the Drone is soon to be part of a bigger modular system (together with various stuff from cgs and mfos and others)....\n</p>\n','2010-02-16 23:55:29','213.112.229.145',0,9),(324,3,53,5,'<p>Hey ringworks.<br />\nI\'ve seen the clear shaft pots before but never used them. I don\'t think mouser sells a clear or semi clear knob for those pots... The slide pots are nice but the LED brightness is a little underwhelming. In dim light they would probably look cool.<br />\nAs far as LED modulation... it\'s a bit complicated. The pulse is a result of combining 2 oscillators. It\'s the relationship between the two. The relative tuning of the 2 creates the phase aligning and diverging DRONE/ PULSE effect which the drone lab is built on. This means that putting a light on the controls for each oscillator to monitor that specific OSC wouldn\'t work. You would only be able to monitor the relationship of 2 OSCs. I think it would make more sense to just have a bank of LEDs which monitor a whole bunch of relationships. For instance one could monitor OSC1&amp;OSC2. Another could be 1&amp;3, another 2&amp;3, 2&amp;4 and so on. There are several possibilities. </p>\n<p>In order to use the signal of 2 OSCs to control an LED, you need to create a PWM(pulse width modulation) signal. This is where it gets even more complicated. I put some info on my website here:<br />\nhttp://casperelectronics.com/drone-lab-add-ons/</p>\n<p> When you combine the 2 OSCs together you naturally get a PWM signal. The problem is that the signal is only 0-50% duty cycle sweep. you want a 0-100% sweep. You can achieve this by combining an AND and NAND gate signal as shown in the diagram at the link above. I later discovered that AND + NAND is the same as an XOR gate. The good news is that XOR gate ICs are cheap and most commonly comes in quad format.. so you get four XOR gates on one IC. </p>\n<p>the output of each XOR gate can be used to control a transistor which will in turn drive an LED. I\'ll try to get something drawn up soon.\n</p>\n','2010-02-18 04:28:02','67.246.38.189',0,3),(325,1,57,52,'<p>Hola,<br />\nnice to see some people around that I have stumbled across on the web already (9volt hack, e.g. - i still adore your sequencer!)</p>\n<p>my dronelabkit is on the way I think - hopefully this forum gets a little push in the postcount again :)</p>\n<p>I didn\'t order the housing kit - how did you guys diy housed your dronelab? post some pics please!<br />\nany recommendations for me on what to pay attention to, before starting the build? I read some complaints about the led placement? whats up with that?</p>\n<p>talk to you soon, lu\n</p>\n','2010-02-21 18:53:32','95.89.146.0',0,1),(326,1,55,31,'<p>wow, love everyone\'s drones!, here\'s my attempt. It\'s called \'lab\' for the moment, just scroll down the list of tracks towards the bottom.</p>\n<p>http://www.myspace.com/StevenMichaelHarris</p>\n<p>Starts off noisy, then chills out towards the 3 minute mark with some nice warm crackling.\n</p>\n','2010-02-23 03:27:04','203.219.43.24',0,10),(327,1,55,5,'<p>@nondirectional.<br />\nI REALLY like your recording. it\'s got nice movement. I like how you transform the sounds over the whole track. How did you make that? Are you using effects or multi channel recording?\n</p>\n','2010-02-23 05:32:49','67.246.38.189',0,11),(328,1,55,27,'<p>agree with casper! best one yet by far! itching to get mine out again!</p>\n<p>don\'t forget about the soundcloud group: </p>\n<p>http://soundcloud.com/groups/drone-lab-music/\n</p>\n','2010-02-23 14:23:48','82.198.136.241',0,12),(329,1,57,6,'<p>Yeah. I am being slow to house my Drone Lab properly. I used some different color LEDs for the power and the tremolo tempo. I built a little wooden wedge to angle the board towards the user. My only complaint would be that the LEDs are difficult to see where they are installed... but no big deal. I love this thing. Just used it for a friend\'s steampunk radio drama that should be playing in another month on WMBR.</p>\n<p>Oh and look out for that C7 capacitor and verify that the polarity that is printed on the board is the right way round.\n</p>\n','2010-02-23 14:53:33','98.216.153.236',0,2),(330,1,57,52,'<p>will do, will do :)</p>\n<p>I think I will use some high effency leds as well - white, pink or green, will see.</p>\n<p>I am also planing on either buying some wooden (big) cigar box at thrift shop or building a wooden case all by myself, even though I am not quite the woodworker yet.</p>\n<p>thanks for the advise on c7. will look out for that.\n</p>\n','2010-02-23 22:40:20','95.89.146.0',0,3),(331,1,57,41,'<p>i did a housing with 1mm thick aero-plywood. great stuff. easy to work with a sharp knife,drill or dremel. but very sturdy. so i did a faceplate and a bottom-plate of it.<br />\nso its still kind of open-housed.<br />\nguess its also available in thicker dimensions.2mm is my personal favorite ,but was out of stock.maybe i can take a picture if you like and my daughter brings the camera back from her holidays.\n</p>\n','2010-02-24 12:48:56','80.218.243.210',0,4),(332,1,57,52,'<p>tinsolder,</p>\n<p>please do!</p>\n<p>I also had the idea of making a square box, but really sand the edges round so it would come out somehow organic...</p>\n<p>the areo plywood is a great idea though - I will definately look into that. courious on the faceplate as well :)</p>\n<p>later\n</p>\n','2010-02-24 13:23:56','132.187.253.25',0,5),(333,1,57,6,'<p>I\'m sorry I think it\'s actually C5. On the first version, at least, the polarity markings screenprinted on the PCB were backwards. And I think it slipped through on the next version as well but, to be truthful, I am not sure.</p>\n<p>I\'m really sort of just waiting for the right case inspiration to strike me. Just haven\'t found the right size thing yet. Not that I\'ve been looking that hard. The biggest problem with casing is that the maker doesn\'t suggest using flying wires because of interference issues. I assume enough wires and the thing turns into an FM radio. I keep the thing in a large ziplock bag when I travel just so it doesn\'t get dirty or wet. Plywood might work okay... but it\'s a shame because it\'s a beautiful board. There just isn\'t a lot of clearance to play with so it\'d have to be thin plywood. And then there\'s the spot for the battery that is sort of awkwardly on front... that might be something you could get away with running wires to, or if you have a good 9V DC adapter maybe just do way with using a battery altogether. I wish more people would post their casing projects. I wonder how many Drone Labs are out there by this point? And why isn\'t there more discussion going on here?\n</p>\n','2010-02-24 20:59:20','98.216.153.236',0,6),(334,1,55,6,'<p>I posted a new track of me playing around with a homemade piezo spring bass and lots of feedback and crunchy distortion goodness.\n</p>\n','2010-02-24 21:06:05','98.216.153.236',0,13),(335,1,57,52,'<p>ha, it our turn now to get this forum goin - I am still looking for casing isntructions...</p>\n<p>regarding the wiring: my wtpa sampler was housed with lots of wires in a hammondbox. it is noisy as hell now, but I like it.<br />\nI was going to order pots to \"really\" mount the dronelab in a cool case, but luckily read about the interference issues first.<br />\nI really like 9volt hacks case - check it out here:</p>\n<p>http://hackingbynight.wordpress.com/</p>\n<p>I think I will build in a 9 volt powersupply adapter, I have good powersupply (guitarist by day, future dronelaber by night) to power it, and I generally hate having to deal with batteries...</p>\n<p>still wonder if everybody is using their lab as is ? I guess the housing kits are a cool alternative, once the become available again...\n</p>\n','2010-02-24 21:22:55','132.187.253.25',0,7),(336,1,57,52,'<p>pic is here:<br />\nhttp://hackingbynight.files.wordpress.com/2009/11/dronelab_frontand-back1.jpg\n</p>\n','2010-02-24 21:23:42','132.187.253.25',0,8),(337,1,55,31,'<p>Thanks Casper &amp; Oootini!, I\'ll add it to the soundcloud group.  Casper: basically it\'s a series of drone runthroughs (usually in large segments), sometimes multitracked or crossfaded into each other.  All DroneLab sounds, apart from the underlying drone which fades in under the last 3 min crackling, which is a biscuit tin with piezo mic being scraped and then heavily slowed down with reverb added.  There is some normalization going on as well to bring out the subtle nuances.  I like your idea angrydroid re piezo, I haven\'t explored the input to it\'s full extent yet, I\'m curious to hear that when I get home.\n</p>\n','2010-02-25 01:30:31','131.170.90.4',0,14),(338,1,57,53,'<p>I\'m keeping mine as-is but lifting it in an adjustable frame, like a music stand.\n</p>\n','2010-02-25 12:59:48','66.25.172.204',0,9),(339,1,55,6,'<p>non-d: i like it... really like the long fading drone ending with the piezo pickup noise.\n</p>\n','2010-02-25 14:36:27','98.216.153.236',0,15),(340,2,58,53,'<p>After getting the Drone Lab up and running, I find that the lpf_cut function isn\'t working. I went over the board front and back, reheating likely suspects. But it was only since this morning that I took the time to overlay front, back and silkscreen in Photoshop that I really (maybe) know where to look for a culprit. I\'m attaching the file so that hopefully you can tell me if I\'m on the right track.</p>\n<p>Admittedly, I have not checked continuity. I\'m a newbie with lots of soldering experience, but almost no troubleshooting or schematic reading experience.</p>\n<p>The only things I was unsure/(or changed) about in the build were:</p>\n<p>• I substituted a bright blue 5mm led in place of the stock red for the tremelo/clock pulse<br />\n• I substituted a brighter Amber 5mm led in place of the stock red for the power indicator<br />\n• I was unsure of which orientation to place the LM7809</p>\n<p>The DL sounds great, but of course I want the whole package, and more!\n</p>\n','2010-02-26 00:06:36','66.25.172.204',0,1),(341,2,58,53,'<p>OK. Thanks first of all to Pete, who immediately got back to my query. Ishould have posted the previous question in the forum.</p>\n<p>As I was testing continuity around the TL074 I found, first, one small break in the trace. I\'m sure I bullied it somehow. I had to fix that with a hardwire (piece of cut-off resistor) because the distance between drill holes was to great to bridge with solder. I found another that looked like a piece of dirt between to solder points - it was copper. I bridged those two with a blob of solder.</p>\n<p>Now it works 100%.</p>\n<p>Fun build. I just didn\'t have the blood sugar or optimism last night to keep looking. Ha.\n</p>\n','2010-02-26 00:12:16','66.25.172.204',0,2),(342,5,59,4,'<p>So now, if you put html code of image tags in, you can post photos and diagrams directly on the forum. To do so type<br />\n(open bracket)img src=\"imagelocationandname.JPG\" /(close bracket)</p>\n<p><img src=\"http://dl.dropbox.com/u/605877/Photos/Punch.JPG\" /></p>\n<p>450px wide or less will work best.\n</p>\n','2010-02-26 03:11:09','67.248.20.189',0,1),(343,2,58,4,'<p>Congrats on the successful build and debugging! Welcome to the forums. We hope you enjoy the Drone Lab!\n</p>\n','2010-02-26 03:24:54','67.248.20.189',0,3),(344,3,10,53,'<p>Analoguebus</p>\n<p>Hope all is well.<br />\nYour posts are infinitely tantalizing. I really look forward to the explosion of mods that will appear soon for the drone lab. </p>\n<p>You mentioned in a post about 3 months ago that you added an Automated Bassline Generator into your drone lab. I have two built already and 1 in the bag. Once I got two of them and let them sing, as they do, with divided clocks, I would let them run as I worked on the computer. I would stop paying attention, and then suddenly my ears would perk up to a beautiful syncopated melody. I want many of them. Dann Green at 4MS is also going to release a modular unit that has a<br />\nlot more bells and whistles.</p>\n<p>When I was at his workshop the other day, he showed me how to hook up an 1/8\" jack (ground to the battery leads - it is easy to clip to and then find the bend on one of the closest resistors to the IR reciever). He just plugged in a clock divider to the jack, and once the bend was touched the divider took over.</p>\n<p>I\'m extremely interested in how you added the autonomous bassline generator into the drone lab! If you ever find yourself with the time, or inclination - I, and probably many others would love to know.</p>\n<p>The IR sync that Eric Archer and 4MS, and others use is on Eric\'s site -- http://ericarcher.net/devices/ir-net/\n</p>\n','2010-02-26 03:46:59','66.25.172.204',0,23),(345,5,59,5,'<p>here\'s the first drone lab<br />\n<img src=\"http://casperelectronics.com/images/finishedpieces/droner/V2/_Droneboard2.JPG\" alt=\"\" title=\"\" />\n</p>\n','2010-02-26 16:38:33','67.246.38.189',1,2),(346,1,57,5,'<p>hey y\'all 2 notes:<br />\n1. we are about to order faceplates. It\'s been sort of an ordeal, but it looks like we\'ll be getting that wrapped up soon... sooo we\'ll have housing kits to sell in the next few weeks.</p>\n<p>2. the new PCBs (marked v2.1) are a little different than the first ones (marked v2)and require a different faceplate. I will post the artwork for the v2.1 faceplate soon.<br />\nOne big difference with the new PCB is that we made it so you can cut the board in half and mount the pots remotely. we\'ve mentioned the dangers of noise from flying wires, but using ribbon cable should keep tangling and noise minimized.\n</p>\n','2010-02-26 16:55:32','67.246.38.189',0,10),(347,1,57,5,'<p>note 3:<br />\nwe are ordering V2 AND V2.1 face plates.\n</p>\n','2010-02-26 16:56:48','67.246.38.189',0,11),(348,1,57,5,'<p>@angrydroid. you can mount the battery box off board with flying wires with no problems. The main dangers of using flying wires are with the oscillator control potentiometers (coarse and fine pitch and volume). There can be lots of cross talk between the oscillators if you wiring is messy.\n</p>\n','2010-02-26 16:59:54','67.246.38.189',0,12),(349,1,57,7,'<p>Hey Pete,</p>\n<p>I am absolutely going the \"cut the board in half and fly my wires\" route. I assumed that ribbon cable would be an no-no, since that puts signals running together in close proximity...happy to hear that\'s not the case since it would be much neater and probably easier to deal with as well.</p>\n<p>Do you think that ribbon cable is a better bet than shielded cable, even for the osc control pots?\n</p>\n','2010-02-27 06:52:47','76.14.27.106',0,13),(350,1,57,41,'<p>first try of posting a pic.<br />\n<img src=\"http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/118/l_a78be70ddca9437891fd0205f0f9b78d.jpg\" />\n</p>\n','2010-02-27 12:02:39','80.218.243.210',0,14),(351,1,57,41,'<p>seems to work and now the faceplate:<br />\n<img src=\"http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/152/l_38ea1931ca0c4e19a2c0c9af0fd56a63.jpg\" />\n</p>\n','2010-02-27 12:17:04','80.218.243.210',0,15),(352,1,57,6,'<p>nice!\n</p>\n','2010-02-27 15:56:26','98.216.153.236',0,16),(353,1,57,4,'<p>Hey great work!\n</p>\n','2010-02-27 17:33:01','67.248.20.189',0,17),(354,1,57,52,'<p>tinsolder, that is very cool!\n</p>\n','2010-02-27 19:56:59','95.89.146.0',0,18),(355,1,57,41,'<p>hey thanks for all your nice comments.<br />\ni first thought posting pics is kind of gear-porn. but no. it\'s ok. i hope to see more of other dronelabs.<br />\ni printed the back-panel on a t-shirt transfer-foil and ironed it directly to the wood surface.easy and really cheap process to do. some clear furnish and there you go.<br />\nstill : thousand of thank-yous for this really cool circuit to the geniuses out there !\n</p>\n','2010-02-28 17:44:46','80.218.243.210',0,19),(356,3,60,7,'<p>I\'d like to add some effects to my Drone Lab...probably reverb and/or delay, maybe some additional distortion later on.</p>\n<p>I\'d like to get some feedback about the best way to do this. I\'m thinking at the end of the path, between C42 and the Master Volume pot. Would that work?</p>\n<p>If I wanted to include a wet/dry mixer (assuming there wasn\'t one already included in the effect\'s circuit), would I use a single pot, or would each channel need to be buffered with a resistor or something?</p>\n<p>Also, I\'ll probably pick up one of these while they\'re still available in small quantities:</p>\n<p>http://www.oct-distribution.com/</p>\n<p>...it\'s a digital reverb/delay board for less than $30, pretty much a drop in solution. It\'s designed for use with guitars, so my question is about the required input voltage...the data sheet says it can\'t take more than 3Vpp. Would that work with the 40106? I assume it\'s voltage output is closer to 9v, is that right? If the voltage were \"padded down\" with a regulator or something would it be loud enough to compete with the dry signal?</p>\n<p>Sorry for the newb questions...let me know if I didn\'t explain something well.\n</p>\n','2010-02-28 23:00:10','76.14.27.106',0,1),(357,3,60,4,'<p>Hey great idea! Where to place the patch for your effect is based on your preferences, and your specific effect. If you would like to pass the Drone Lab directly into the effect, the spot you mention would be fine. Make sure there is a DC blocking capacitor at the output of the effect before you patch it back into the Drone Lab\'s output. If instead you would want to use the effect in question on the raw oscillator mixer and LPF, and have the effected audio run through the distortion and band pass filters of the Drone Lab, then I would suggest you choose Break Out 1 (BO1 on schematic), which is located between C25 and R42&amp;R43. </p>\n<p>As for the wet/dry mixer, I\'m not entirely sure I understand your question. If the mixer is passive, it adds more or less relative resistance connecting two input signals (see the BPF Blend circuit in the Drone Lab schematic). If a mixer is active, both channels need to run through a capacitor (to block DC Voltages) in series with a resistor (to set the relative gain, where smaller input resistors have higher gain in the output mix). To blend two signals and fade from one to the other, such as a wet / dry blend, you can can change the input resistances to change relative gain, or you can attenuate the signals by passing them through a stereo pot wired with the two signals reverse of eachother, such that at one end the first signal is grounded and the second signal is at full level, and at the other end of the pot\'s movement the case is the opposite. </p>\n<p>Thanks for the tip on the reverb delay board. As for the voltages of signals, honestly I don\'t know them offhand in the mixer networks of the Drone Lab, but you can measure them with an AC voltmeter and you can always pass them through a simple voltage divider to tone them down if they are too hot. Good Luck, can\'t wait to hear how it goes.\n</p>\n','2010-03-01 02:13:12','67.248.20.189',0,2),(358,3,60,7,'<p>Thanks, super helpful.</p>\n<p>What size cap should I use post-effect as a DC blocker...10uf, just like C42? Would it work to take the effects loop before C42, instead of after?</p>\n<p>The program set on that FV-1 board that I want says that it \"is intended to have its output mixed back in with the source signal\"...the stereo pot suggestion you made sounds right on.</p>\n<p>I\'d love it if someone could measure the voltage of the DroneLab\'s mixer network. If I get to it first, I\'ll post it here.\n</p>\n','2010-03-01 05:23:38','76.14.27.106',0,3),(359,3,10,27,'<p>i was messing with some 40106 chips at the weekend. i think i\'m definitely going to add the individual outs. i can stereo jacks to take up less board real estate.\n</p>\n','2010-03-01 10:08:53','82.198.136.241',0,24),(360,3,60,4,'<p>Yea, 10uF should be fine, experiment with the value and the placement, and report your findings.\n</p>\n','2010-03-01 13:12:30','67.248.20.189',0,4),(361,3,60,27,'<p>have you heard those reverb/delay circuits? they sound ok? </p>\n<p>cheap digi delay can be really horrible sounding - witness some of the behringer delay padels.</p>\n<p>altough the behringer vd400 is a really great analog delay pedal for 40 bux...\n</p>\n','2010-03-01 14:41:02','82.198.136.241',0,5),(362,3,60,7,'<p>I haven\'t heard it in person, but there are lots of samples on their site...would love to hear what you think.</p>\n<p>The big strengths of the unit are that it has a lot of effects in a very small space, it\'s pretty cheap, and it\'s already built (just add power, signal, pots, etc.). </p>\n<p>You can build a real spring reverb without spending too much money, but I\'d like my Drone Lab to be a self-contained unit, and I\'ve already built an enclosure that\'s not big enough for a reverb tank. And you gotta deal with all the hum &amp; noise and stuff. </p>\n<p>Nothing like a real reverb tank tho, that you can kick to create a sound like a thunderstorm!\n</p>\n','2010-03-01 17:07:13','76.14.27.106',0,6),(363,1,57,5,'<p>@clarke68.<br />\nI think ribbon cable is in fact the best way to go. Shielded cable is GREAT! but a pain to wire up and can be all around problematic if not done cleanly. I haven\'t tried cutting and separating the pots board, so I don\'t know how noise prone it is, but Chris and I are betting that it won\'t be too problematic. Just use ribbon cable and keep it as short and untangled as possible.\n</p>\n','2010-03-02 03:04:59','67.246.38.189',0,20),(364,4,61,5,'<p>show off your drone lab! If you put html code of image tags in, you can post photos and diagrams directly on the forum. To do so type<br />\n(open bracket)img src=\"imagelocationandname.JPG\" /(close bracket)<br />\n450px wide or less will work best.</p>\n<p>I\'ll start. Here\'s a picture of the first drone lab in it\'s infancy:<br />\n<img src=\"http://casperelectronics.com/images/finishedpieces/droner/V2/_Droneboard2.JPG\" alt=\"\" title=\"\" />\n</p>\n','2010-03-02 03:10:16','67.246.38.189',0,1),(365,1,57,5,'<p>@ tin solder: great job!I like how you boxed in the different control sets. Nice colors too... and the graphics on the back are totally rad. intersecting circles are what it\'s all about :)<br />\n I\'ve started a drone lab photo thread. You should post your pics there!<br />\nhttp://casperelectronics.com/ghostwizard/topic.php?id=61&amp;replies=1#post-364\n</p>\n','2010-03-02 03:13:03','67.246.38.189',0,21),(366,1,57,52,'<p>my dronelab kit arrived safely today! :)</p>\n<p>I am moving right now - so it will be done some time next week...\n</p>\n','2010-03-02 21:51:59','95.89.145.145',0,22),(367,4,61,27,'<p>oi oi.</p>\n<p><img src=\"http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2532/4152365385_3606533391.jpg\" />\n</p>\n','2010-03-03 21:39:11','109.255.116.208',0,2),(368,3,10,16,'<p>I am so very sorry that it is taking so long guys and gals. I have had one thing after another come up its been quite rough couple weeks, well its finally eased out and now I can get to work. Casper and I are talking back and forth right now about stuff he wants me to show or stuff that may fry the dronelab ignite the earths atmosphere and make babies cry.</p>\n<p>I promise really soon it will have stuff up. Its just been crazy @_@.</p>\n<p>Oh oootini there is a doodad I made to make it easy to get to the ins and outs of the 40106 and the TL0xx (where the filters are) on the board. They are little sockets just like the one you soldered to board but they have female single row snap headers sticking out the sides like wings, a female spot for each pin. You plug it into the dronelab and then the orig chip into it. It now acts like a \"splice\" letting you do naughty stuff. I hooked a bunch of stuff up to my two etched copper plates I have on my breadboard of doom (stolen idea from Caspers pedal prototyping bread board).</p>\n<p>Gotta run! will send links of pics of what I am talking about in a few minutes!!\n</p>\n','2010-03-03 21:58:03','97.66.94.178',0,25),(369,3,10,16,'<p>oootini,</p>\n<p>here was a pic or two I promised on how I interface to the chips...remember I said I built a silly little breakout well here is a horribly blurry pic of it from my facebook photos:</p>\n<p>http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=3230529&amp;l=cb6f99203b&amp;id=769142187</p>\n<p>and</p>\n<p>http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=3230529&amp;l=cb6f99203b&amp;id=769142187</p>\n<p>I apologize for the terrible pic. I can take better ones now that I got a better cam (sorta) for example here is latest shot of my thinking, prototyping area:</p>\n<p>http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=3534726&amp;l=45ab1b65dc&amp;id=769142187</p>\n<p>Still sorta crappy....</p>\n<p>The breadboard of doom I made since I am constantly envious of Casper and his amazing ideas, I added copper touch plates so I can test bends: </p>\n<p>http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=3238792&amp;l=317ecd2d35&amp;id=769142187</p>\n<p>I will post more tonight on the ideas that I want help community with once again, the order I want to do them and then I will have to see what order casper wants them done. Also I dunno if Casper wants me to do this or hopefully he can, I can prob make kits or full blown mods of some of these. Some just need to be plugged in, (after some ground work has been done) I will discuss it tonight with yall and Casper, go back several posts to see the basic ideas, tonight I will detail what each entails and what it does.</p>\n<p>Thanks!!<br />\nBryan\n</p>\n','2010-03-04 20:44:55','97.66.94.178',0,26),(370,1,57,27,'<p>that looks really nice tinsolder..\n</p>\n','2010-03-05 15:14:22','82.198.136.241',0,23),(371,3,10,53,'<p>Thanks Bryan. Can\'t wait.\n</p>\n','2010-03-08 17:01:02','206.208.104.19',0,27),(372,3,10,27,'<p>cool!\n</p>\n','2010-03-09 16:18:47','82.198.136.241',0,28),(373,3,60,16,'<p>You found Spin FV-1 dev boards for $30? Wow that\'s a good deal I mean they were never terribly expensive DSPs but that\'s about 1/3rd of cost if it\'s the standard dev board. On sound quality it sounds pretty good (well mainly on the algorithym you put in. I think the dev board comes with 10 pre-filled effects and 10 user blank ones. They have a little ASMish language with lots of macros. You can make LFOs, Envelopes and other really basic building block stuff besides the more complex effects items. The modular community seems to like it. If I remember correctly it is the core to the TipTop Audio Z-DSP module. Which sells for 400+!! One of the reasons they want the summed output of the Dronlab (prob the coolest) or just it\'s output own output fed back in, in stereo if I remember (also trying to picture the z-dsp front panel) is it allows you to do some really nice feedback loops or really angry loud feedback loops. </p>\n<p>I would recommend going to thier site (the fv-1 ppl) and download the manual. It gives you a pretty clear picture on what it can do and what is impossible with it\'s semi (not too bad) limited feature set.</p>\n<p>Pete, this suddenly gave me an idea but not using the fv-1 but my core :p</p>\n<p>cheers<br />\nBryan\n</p>\n','2010-03-10 23:06:46','166.137.8.36',0,7),(374,3,60,7,'<p>Yeah, I was pretty blown away when I found it! The company that makes the boards is listed as Spin\'s distributor in the US. They have them available with three different program sets, or they will do a custom set for you if you\'re willing to buy 25 of them.</p>\n<p>Basically, the $30 is the OEM price but they are, for now, selling them to DIYers in small quantities. </p>\n<p>I\'m still working on tackling the voltage issue. The guy there suggested I use a quad op-amp to drop the voltage down to 3Vpp, then use the remaining channels to boost the wet signal back up again. I\'d love to hear if anyone has any suggestions of just how to do that.\n</p>\n','2010-03-11 04:13:13','99.59.179.141',0,8),(375,3,60,4,'<p>clarke68:</p>\n<p>I\'d just use a voltage divider to get the signals to be the voltage you want, and then reduce the input resistors to the mixing opamp and low pass filter (the four 100k resistors next to eachother on the board above the battery box) to make up for the lost signal strength.\n</p>\n','2010-03-11 20:48:12','67.248.20.189',0,9),(376,3,60,7,'<p>Hey Chris,</p>\n<p>I\'m confused. The 4 100k resistors you refer to (R35-38, right?) are ahead of both of the possible break out points you mentioned in your post last week (above). Am I missing something...how could that work?\n</p>\n','2010-03-12 07:09:50','99.59.179.141',0,10),(377,3,60,4,'<p>Ah I see, I was confused as to what you were doing for a second, that would be what to do if you wanted to change the volumes of the voices individually. You can use a voltage divider still to drop the signal, but if you needed to boost an audio signal higher, you can simply use a standard inverting amplifier circuit using an op-amp. The rules are simple. </p>\n<p>Set the voltage at the non-inverting terminal of the op amp to 4.5 volts. Use a capacitor of almost any value in series with the signal to block any DC bias the signal may be riding on, and then pass the signal through an input resistor, R1, and then to the inverting input of the op amp. Add another resistor, R2 from this input going to the output of the op-amp. Add another series capacitor on the output, and you\'ve boosted your signal by a gain of R2/R1.\n</p>\n','2010-03-12 08:22:45','67.248.20.189',0,11),(378,3,60,7,'<p>Got it, thanks!</p>\n<p>The only part I don\'t get is the \"Set the voltage at the non-inverting terminal of the op amp to 4.5 volts\" bit. How? Why 4.5 volts?\n</p>\n','2010-03-12 17:58:33','99.59.179.141',0,12),(379,3,60,5,'<p>test\n</p>\n','2010-03-12 19:25:24','67.246.38.189',1,13),(380,3,60,4,'<p>test\n</p>\n','2010-03-12 19:28:36','67.246.38.189',1,13),(381,3,60,4,'<p>It has to do with the fact that the voltage supply for the Drone Lab is signal ended, i.e. the available voltages are 0V (GND) and 9V (power). All sound waves are AC signals, as they move above and below a mid-level voltage called a DC bias. The frequency of this modulation is the pitch, and the amplitude is the volume. To allow for the most headroom (amplitude variation without hitting the max or min voltage supply and creating a flat edge in the sound wave), the bias point is usually selected to be half way between the min and max voltages available. To create this bias point, simply connect two high value resistors (large so they don\'t waste energy due to ohmic heating, 100k or so should be fine) in series with the 9V supply to ground, and the voltage at the point where the two resistors connect should be half the voltage, in this case 4.5 VDC.  Ideally, the op-amp should not pull current frm this voltage source through the non-inverting input terminal, but if you run into any problems, try using a small decoupling capacitor, 0.1uF should be fine, by tying one end of it to the 4.5V voltage source and the other end to ground. This adds a bit of \"voltage momentum\" to prevent oscillations. </p>\n<p>All of the explanations I am giving on this thread are sort of \"quick and dirty\", and I\'d highly suggest picking up a book on beginning electronic audio design for more depth and clarity. I personally suggest The Art of Electronics. But with these basics I think you can build the circuit you want, and begin to get a good feeling for intuitive amplifier design with a little trial and error.\n</p>\n','2010-03-12 19:30:58','67.246.38.189',0,13),(382,3,60,7,'<p>Thanks! Your replies may be \"quick &amp; dirty\", but I\'m very grateful for them. The Drone Lab is one of my first forays into building (I\'ve got a Cracklebox on the bench right now), so I definitely have a lot to learn. </p>\n<p>It\'s funny...a couple copies of \"The Art of Electronics\" just turned up for sale on the S-DIY list not long after you posted this.</p>\n<p>Have a great weekend!\n</p>\n','2010-03-13 08:08:03','99.59.179.141',0,14),(383,3,60,4,'<p>clarke68: I saw that post too. I would snatch up a copy of AOE as quick as possible. It\'s a great resource.\n</p>\n','2010-03-14 05:43:47','67.246.44.13',0,15),(384,3,60,16,'<p>Clarke I am sorry I completely skipped the distributor. If you have the extra 60 or so bucks I would by the real deal dev board. I have read about the oct and looked into it, personally it sucks unless you really really like the set of programs they include on the flash. Well let me re-phrase that, unless you want to add all the parts oct stripped away (which would not be too bad). The big reason this thing is popular is because its a DSP with a lot of pre-setup blocks for you that let you call one or two lines of their SpinASM and be able to do cool tricks. They made it crazy easy for the masses to be able to do DSP work. Similar to the case of Max,Pd,Super Collider,Audio Mulch, Plouge Bidule, impromptu, chuck, csound, etc. It makes it easy to do something that sometimes spinning up your own DSP from scratch can be a bit difficult to do. On the real dev board you can put 10 of any programs you want. They have a full dev kit and surprisingly a lot of really good examples code wise. Now, I am not trying to sound like a salesman personally I am not using a Spin or will probably use one. I mean I will probably get the dev board to mess around with soon (mainly because of my compulsion to buy dev boards for everything). This site gives a lot of good info. http://www.spinsemi.com/knowledge_base/demo_board.html\n</p>\n','2010-03-15 00:36:09','74.244.221.28',0,16),(385,3,53,16,'<p>The big big use of XOR GATES with square waves is a 4 gate pseudo ring mod. Thats typically what you find most people using chips like the CD4011 or CD4030 for at first. Its true you can do pulse width control or phased pulse width control, but in most cases I have found its a wicked gate to use for pseudo ring modulation without needing to go buy two CT coupling transformers and 4 germanium diodes (sorts sucks that basically no other diode will work).</p>\n<p>Actually if you are wiring up the 2 waves straight to the 4 inputs on a CMOS XOR it is producing a ring mod effect.</p>\n<p>A easy way to do pulse width modulation is to do this oscillator mod....Riding on the same lines your pitch control are is another pot. Center lug tied to inverted side (out) and the the two outside lugs have a diode in opposing directions that connect to input side.</p>\n<p> The super awesome best way I have seen is a tiny circuit Synthmonger made using a 4007 and a 40106. It use the parts of the 40106 after the 4007 has been set the pulse width by  pot. Will need to send a diagram of it. It has insane control of the duty cycle.\n</p>\n','2010-03-15 02:49:27','74.244.221.28',0,4),(386,3,60,7,'<p>Yeah, the dev board does look like a lot of fun, but that\'s way overkill for what I need for my Drone Lab (plus the best price I\'ve found on it is over $160). </p>\n<p>Would be a really great stand-alone effects unit, tho...you should get one and show us what it can do!\n</p>\n','2010-03-16 04:54:35','99.59.179.141',0,17),(387,3,60,16,'<p>Clark,<br />\nDid you buy that Spin chip board by any chance? Not the Dev one I was talking about but the octa one? Just wondering since I might be making a few more guides (I know none have been put out here yet) and had a cool idea about making an add-on thats basically like the one you were looking at but has the abilities of the dev-one they do charge a little too high for that simple board. Well I guess too high is relative. People pay Tiptop Audio around $490 for a module called the Z-DSP for Euro racks. But its crazy what you are able to do with that simple little dev board! I dont even like it much because of how they did a few things (not like it in a embedded chip/DSP nerdisim way, not audio) Compared to a few built in non-changeable effects you can get a bunch of examples out there for all types of FV-1 code and go crazy. Dont they only give you two choices with that octa on what effects it comes with? And I dunno if I saw a thing on the header for loopback of signal for the big feedback effects, one of the cooler things, well until your head explodes......</p>\n<p>Random thoughts and crap from Bryan\n</p>\n','2010-03-18 19:02:32','97.66.94.178',0,18),(388,3,60,7,'<p>Not yet...I called them this week and they\'re out of the one I want (the G01), but should have more in a few days. Right now they have 3 different sets you can get \"off the shelf\". Each has different effects but there are other differences too...like one takes a mono input but outputs stereo, one outputs a signal that is meant to be used by itself, others are meant to be mixed back with the original signal, etc.</p>\n<p>I really just want reverb and delay, the G01 will do both and also seems to be the simplest to implement. I\'ll definitely let you know when I have it running, or I\'ll come back with questions if I can\'t... :-)\n</p>\n','2010-03-19 08:05:24','99.59.179.141',0,19),(389,1,62,37,'<p>[EDIT] Found it, ordering new one, everything else seems to be in order, in case that\'d be wrong I\'ll let you know, now its time to start assembling :) [EDIT]</p>\n<p>Hi, I sat down today with my Drone Lab kit and counted the parts and it seems that I\'m missing one 2.2K resistor, and instead got 15 x 10K resistors, I\'ve tripple checked them all and no 2.2K is to be found. </p>\n<p>This is no biggie however (we\'re only human), I can order a new one from a supplier here but they have 7 different types of 2.2K resistor types with different watt specs, so my question is, which one is the right one? </p>\n<p>Best Regards\n</p>\n','2010-03-19 13:18:42','80.251.207.11',0,1),(390,1,62,6,'<p>Yeah. That happened to me too. I had one too few of one resistor and one too many of another. Luckily I had the a spare of the missing one in my scraps. Considering all the parts involved I think one or two minor mistakes is pretty good!\n</p>\n','2010-03-20 12:32:46','98.216.153.236',0,2),(391,3,63,7,'<p>I\'d like to build my Drone Lab with bananas instead of 3.5mm jacks. The only place (that I\'ve found so far) where this might make a difference is with the clock in/out/thru, which calls for switched jacks. </p>\n<p>Looking at the schematic &amp; the board, it seems like a switched jack is only required on the clock in...is that the case? Could I essentially get the same thing with a banana jack and an SPST to kill the onboard clock?\n</p>\n','2010-03-20 22:04:04','99.59.179.141',0,1),(392,1,20,55,'<p>I just ordered all the parts to build this EXCEPT for these out of stock / nowhere to be found items:</p>\n<p>- DPDT slide switches<br />\n- NPN 2N3904 transistors (backordered til July!)</p>\n<p>Does anyone have any idea where I can order these parts besides Mouser or Digikey?<br />\nOr know of a different compatible DPDT slide switch?<br />\nAlso, I found a similar NPN transistor at Radioshack, but the power specs are very different.  Does anyone know how this will affect things?  What do I do?  Here is the Radioshack part:<br />\nhttp://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062609&amp;CAWELAID=107595524 </p>\n<p>Help!\n</p>\n','2010-03-21 04:50:16','65.6.164.247',0,21),(393,3,63,5,'<p>@clarke68. Yes you can get the same effect with banana jacks and a toggle switch. You could also rewire the tremolo switch to act as an internal/external clock switch. That way if nothing was plugged in it could be used as an ON/OFF switch like it is now... and if you have a clocked plugged in you could turn that on and off via the external clock controls or just by unplugging it.\n</p>\n','2010-03-21 04:58:03','67.246.38.189',0,2),(394,1,20,55,'<p>For those of you in search of capacitors, this is a good source:<br />\nhttp://www.futurlec.com/CapElectro.shtml</p>\n<p>However, please note that they are in Thailand, so it takes a LONG TIME to receive your order.  They are pretty cheap though.  Might be worth doing a big order to stock up.\n</p>\n','2010-03-21 04:58:21','65.6.164.247',0,22),(395,3,63,7,'<p>That\'s the ticket...one switch to rule them both. Thanks Pete!\n</p>\n','2010-03-21 15:22:26','99.59.179.141',0,3),(396,1,62,4,'<p>Hey sorry about that! The resistors used in the kit are 1/4 W.\n</p>\n','2010-03-21 16:16:55','67.248.20.189',0,3),(397,1,64,5,'<p>We finally have housing kits available for sale. We have two versions to match the two versions of PCB we have sold. Make sure you look at the back of your PCB to see what version you have. It\'s either a V2 or a V2.1.<br />\nYou can order a housing kit here:<br />\nhttp://casperelectronics.com/for-sale-2/<br />\n<img src=\"http://casperelectronics.com/images/finishedpieces/droner/V2/housing/_Faceplate.JPG\" alt=\"\" title=\"\" /><br />\nFaceplates come with protective paper backing shown above. The picture below shows the housing kit fully assembled. Faceplates have laser etched labeling. click on the image below for a detail shot.<br />\n<a href=\"http://casperelectronics.com/images/finishedpieces/droner/V2/housing/Faceplate_Applied.JPG\"><img src=\"http://casperelectronics.com/images/finishedpieces/droner/V2/housing/_Faceplate_Applied.JPG\" alt=\"\" title=\"\" /></a>\n</p>\n','2010-03-23 18:41:06','67.246.38.189',0,1),(398,1,65,45,'<p>Hello everybody!<br />\nI have for sale a drone lab version 2.0 build by me with the housing kit included (all in perfect condition and it work great).<br />\nThe price is 200 euros or 270 dollars.<br />\nI live in France i can send it everywhere in the world (just ask me for the shipping cost)<br />\nIf yu\'re interested just send me an email: julduf@mail.com<br />\nSince i builded the drone lab i buy a mfb kraftzwerg and i need money for more moduls.........<br />\nBest<br />\nJulien\n</p>\n','2010-03-25 17:44:53','82.247.140.238',0,1),(399,1,64,12,'<p>This may sound strange, but is it possible to get a faceplate that does *not* have a cutout for the 9v battery holder?  I didn\'t mount the 9v holder as I have no intention of ever using my drone lab on battery power.  Having a matching faceplate without a 9v cutout would be most excellent.\n</p>\n','2010-03-26 03:48:10','173.64.108.129',0,2),(400,1,64,5,'<p>@Bsom,<br />\nWe order our face plates in quantity so getting just one that\'s different than the rest isn\'t really an option. If there are a bunch more people looking for the same kind of face plate we could do a small custom run.\n</p>\n','2010-03-26 03:55:21','67.246.38.189',0,3),(401,1,64,12,'<p>Understood.  Wasn\'t sure if you were laser cutting them to order or not.\n</p>\n','2010-03-26 04:03:02','173.64.108.129',0,4),(402,1,64,5,'<p>I\'ll look into it.. we may be able to swing something.\n</p>\n','2010-03-26 04:06:02','67.246.38.189',0,5);

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-- Dumping data for table `bb_topics`
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INSERT INTO `bb_topics` VALUES (1,'Your first topic','your-first-topic',1,'support',1,'support','2009-11-04 23:34:34','2009-11-04 23:34:34',1,1,1,1,0,0,0),(2,'Welcome!','welcome',5,'casper',4,'chris','2009-11-05 01:26:22','2009-11-05 01:49:42',1,0,1,3,1,2,0),(3,'assembly forum test','assembly-forum-test',4,'chris',4,'chris','2009-11-19 20:01:24','2009-11-19 20:01:24',1,1,1,4,0,0,0),(4,'my first post!','my-first-post',6,'angrydroid',29,'dubbass','2009-11-19 20:09:57','2009-12-01 03:11:21',5,0,1,151,0,15,0),(5,'Assembly Documentation','assembly-documentation',4,'chris',4,'chris','2009-11-19 20:29:11','2009-12-03 07:49:49',2,0,1,195,1,12,12),(6,'voice 3','voice-3',10,'cathartech',5,'casper','2009-11-21 01:33:16','2009-11-21 06:56:55',2,0,1,30,0,4,0),(23,'Those blue caps','those-blue-caps',6,'angrydroid',4,'','2009-11-24 23:24:36','2009-11-26 16:36:45',2,0,1,98,0,4,0),(14,'Assembly tips 2. Soldering','assembly-tips-2-soldering',5,'casper',5,'casper','2009-11-21 08:00:11','2009-11-21 08:00:11',2,0,1,37,0,1,0),(7,'Drone Lab build process photos','drone-lab-build-process-photos',9,'fred',4,'chris','2009-11-21 03:32:02','2009-11-21 16:41:22',4,0,1,43,0,2,4),(8,'Distributor Model Numbers','distributor-model-numbers',12,'bsom',12,'bsom','2009-11-21 04:47:04','2009-11-21 15:26:54',1,0,1,42,0,4,10),(9,'done','done',10,'cathartech',6,'angrydroid','2009-11-21 05:14:12','2009-11-25 02:38:46',4,0,1,84,0,8,0),(10,'Possible mods','possible-mods',5,'casper',27,'oootini','2009-11-21 07:12:29','2010-03-09 16:18:47',3,0,1,372,0,28,0),(11,'Assembly tips 1. Polarity','assembly-tips-1-polarity',5,'casper',5,'casper','2009-11-21 07:24:19','2009-11-21 07:24:19',2,0,1,32,0,1,0),(12,'triggers','triggers',10,'cathartech',5,'casper','2009-11-21 07:34:32','2009-11-22 14:08:20',2,0,1,52,0,2,0),(13,'Assembly document typos. Please read.','assembly-document-typos-please-read',5,'casper',15,'','2009-11-21 07:34:59','2009-11-21 17:00:19',2,1,1,45,0,0,0),(32,'Job DRONE!!','job-drone',26,'vacamaca',26,'vacamaca','2009-11-29 10:17:24','2009-11-30 06:30:58',4,0,1,142,0,6,2),(15,'Making your first Drone','making-your-first-drone',5,'casper',18,'messhof','2009-11-22 12:05:29','2009-11-22 15:03:59',6,0,1,53,0,2,4),(29,'faceplate kit hardware order?','faceplate-kit-hardware-order',28,'sealion',27,'oootini','2009-11-28 22:55:26','2009-11-30 17:40:31',2,0,1,144,0,5,6),(16,'Can we get the schematic that shows how the regulator was/is actually wired in?','can-we-get-the-schematic-that-shows-how-the-regulator-wasis-actually-wired-in',19,'nzc',4,'chris','2009-11-22 16:05:37','2009-11-23 08:09:42',1,0,1,63,0,3,4),(17,'About arrival time','about-arrival-time',20,'courbet',20,'courbet','2009-11-22 19:13:13','2009-11-23 13:04:47',1,0,1,65,0,3,0),(18,'write up and short video','write-up-and-short-video',15,'stuckie27',4,'chris','2009-11-23 01:03:41','2009-11-23 08:50:22',4,0,1,64,0,2,0),(19,'Parts list and distributor numbers','parts-list-and-distributor-numbers',5,'casper',5,'casper','2009-11-23 06:30:34','2009-11-23 06:30:34',2,0,1,61,0,1,0),(20,'Part Substitutions','part-substitutions',12,'bsom',55,'Resonator1111','2009-11-23 20:39:36','2010-03-21 04:58:21',1,0,1,394,0,22,0),(21,'Choosing the right power supply (READ ME!)','choosing-the-right-power-supply-read-me',5,'casper',5,'casper','2009-11-24 02:04:52','2009-11-24 02:04:52',1,0,1,70,0,1,6),(22,'Choosing the right power supply (READ ME!)','choosing-the-right-power-supply-read-me-1',5,'casper',5,'casper','2009-11-24 02:08:46','2009-11-24 02:08:46',2,0,1,71,0,1,6),(40,'external tremelo trigger.','external-tremelo-trigger',27,'oootini',27,'oootini','2009-12-03 14:43:55','2009-12-03 16:22:35',6,0,1,202,0,5,0),(24,'1/4&quot; input jack','14-input-jack',6,'angrydroid',27,'oootini','2009-11-25 04:06:11','2009-12-02 18:50:51',6,0,1,181,0,31,0),(25,'Faceplate Dimensions','faceplate-dimensions',24,'NoPanda',6,'angrydroid','2009-11-25 23:30:41','2009-12-10 13:31:24',1,0,1,228,0,5,2),(26,'Drone Test Video','drone-test-video',6,'angrydroid',6,'angrydroid','2009-11-26 16:37:47','2009-11-30 02:09:01',4,0,1,138,0,6,1),(27,'oops.  installed 100K where 10K was called for.','oops-installed-100k-where-10k-was-called-for',19,'nzc',19,'nzc','2009-11-28 16:21:41','2009-11-28 21:01:27',2,0,1,110,0,5,0),(28,'Can I sub 1/8 watt 100K ohm resistors for the 1/4 watt ones?','can-i-sub-18-watt-100k-ohm-resistors-for-the-14-watt-ones',19,'nzc',19,'nzc','2009-11-28 16:27:28','2009-11-28 21:02:38',2,0,1,111,0,3,0),(30,'Building a Drone Lab in 7 Minutes','building-a-drone-lab-in-7-minutes',12,'bsom',12,'bsom','2009-11-28 23:10:11','2009-11-30 21:40:34',1,0,1,146,0,7,6),(31,'Attaching the feet on the housing','attaching-the-feet-on-the-housing',5,'casper',5,'casper','2009-11-28 23:32:07','2009-11-28 23:32:07',2,0,1,116,0,1,0),(33,'faint intermittent buzz','faint-intermittent-buzz',6,'angrydroid',6,'angrydroid','2009-11-29 20:51:53','2009-11-30 01:50:12',6,0,1,137,0,6,0),(34,'DRONE LAB INFO (schematics, parts lists, etc...)','drone-lab-info-schematics-parts-lists-etc',5,'casper',6,'angrydroid','2009-12-01 13:41:44','2010-01-22 17:08:11',2,0,1,295,1,7,0),(42,'Save versus misassembly!  It works!','save-versus-misassembly-it-works',19,'nzc',5,'casper','2009-12-03 23:52:03','2009-12-04 01:29:21',2,0,1,208,0,2,0),(35,'C5 upside down READ ME!','c5-upside-down-read-me',5,'casper',4,'chris','2009-12-01 21:31:30','2010-01-19 15:06:56',2,0,1,289,0,5,0),(36,'Drone Lab Beauty Shots','drone-lab-beauty-shots',4,'chris',5,'casper','2009-12-02 00:24:12','2009-12-03 01:25:44',4,0,1,188,0,3,0),(37,'oscillator vibrato','oscillator-vibrato',6,'angrydroid',6,'angrydroid','2009-12-02 16:33:57','2009-12-03 14:24:25',6,0,1,196,0,6,0),(38,'My dronelab is ready!','my-dronelab-is-ready',32,'urbanspaceman',4,'chris','2009-12-02 18:53:15','2009-12-03 02:51:25',1,0,1,193,0,2,0),(39,'clock in weirdness','clock-in-weirdness',33,'chinard',33,'chinard','2009-12-03 00:55:35','2009-12-03 02:26:18',2,0,1,192,0,5,0),(41,'bigfoot','bigfoot',6,'angrydroid',5,'casper','2009-12-03 16:05:49','2010-02-01 04:37:56',4,0,1,310,0,8,2),(43,'Drone Lab + Guitar','drone-lab-guitar',9,'fred',4,'chris','2009-12-05 08:59:43','2009-12-05 16:23:41',4,0,1,210,0,2,8),(44,'video of completed pair','video-of-completed-pair',28,'sealion',6,'angrydroid','2009-12-11 01:30:54','2009-12-11 13:56:21',4,0,1,236,0,4,2),(45,'Cardboard Faceplate?!?','cardboard-faceplate',12,'bsom',26,'vacamaca','2009-12-11 02:38:07','2009-12-14 23:40:52',1,0,1,245,0,12,8),(46,'Software oscilloscope','software-oscilloscope',35,'1_over_f_noise',4,'chris','2009-12-16 18:44:19','2009-12-17 04:07:53',1,0,1,247,0,2,2),(47,'Digikey out of pots','digikey-out-of-pots',38,'madstringbean',5,'casper','2009-12-17 15:29:21','2009-12-18 07:13:36',1,0,1,249,0,2,8),(48,'the first song with dronelab!','the-first-song-with-dronelab',32,'urbanspaceman',32,'urbanspaceman','2009-12-19 14:46:10','2009-12-23 13:02:59',1,0,1,255,0,3,6),(49,'cv control of oscillators','cv-control-of-oscillators',5,'casper',16,'analoguebus','2009-12-29 07:07:08','2010-02-03 18:27:08',3,0,1,315,0,14,6),(50,'Digital Logic Magic tricks','digital-logic-magic-tricks',5,'casper',44,'Kaellman','2009-12-29 21:51:11','2010-02-09 20:00:11',3,0,1,317,0,7,0),(51,'Finished Dronelab housing &amp; faceplate pics','finished-dronelab-housing-faceplate-pics',31,'non directional',31,'non directional','2009-12-30 00:34:11','2010-01-02 01:18:47',1,0,1,271,0,6,2),(52,'Urgh! Put DIP sockets in wrong, how bad is that?','urgh-put-dip-sockets-in-wrong-how-bad-is-that',39,'dqmarkham',4,'chris','2009-12-30 02:52:26','2010-01-01 06:08:33',2,0,1,270,0,5,4),(53,'Pulsing LEDs','pulsing-leds',5,'casper',16,'analoguebus','2009-12-31 05:20:35','2010-03-15 02:49:27',3,0,1,385,0,4,0),(54,'Board Version 2.1','board-version-21',4,'chris',7,'clarke68','2010-01-17 21:36:22','2010-02-02 14:51:18',2,0,1,313,0,11,6),(55,'The first album','the-first-album',44,'Kaellman',6,'angrydroid','2010-01-28 07:34:07','2010-02-25 14:36:27',1,0,1,339,0,15,6),(56,'voice 4 seems to not be sync....','voice-4-seems-to-not-be-sync',14,'dead beat',4,'chris','2010-02-09 22:02:26','2010-02-10 14:45:34',2,0,1,319,0,2,2),(57,'noobie on board, looking for housing inspiration','noobie-on-board-looking-for-housing-inspiration',52,'blue_lu',27,'oootini','2010-02-21 18:53:32','2010-03-05 15:14:22',1,0,1,370,0,23,4),(58,'What did I do?? lpf_cut function isn&#039;t working...','what-did-i-do-lpf_cut-function-isnt-working',53,'skwaarmalar machine',4,'chris','2010-02-26 00:06:36','2010-02-26 03:24:54',2,0,1,343,0,3,2),(61,'Drone Lab photos!','drone-lab-photos',5,'casper',27,'oootini','2010-03-02 03:10:16','2010-03-03 21:39:11',4,0,1,367,0,2,4),(59,'Now allowing images tags!','now-allowing-images-tags',4,'chris',4,'','2010-02-26 03:11:09','2010-02-26 03:11:09',5,0,1,342,0,1,2),(60,'Adding Effects','adding-effects',7,'clarke68',7,'clarke68','2010-02-28 23:00:10','2010-03-19 08:05:24',3,0,1,388,0,19,2),(62,'missing resistor?','missing-resistor',37,'MindTheSnare',4,'chris','2010-03-19 13:18:42','2010-03-21 16:16:55',1,0,1,396,0,3,2),(63,'Switching to bananas','switching-to-bananas',7,'clarke68',7,'clarke68','2010-03-20 22:04:04','2010-03-21 15:22:26',3,0,1,395,0,3,0),(64,'Housing kits available!','housing-kits-available',5,'casper',5,'casper','2010-03-23 18:41:06','2010-03-26 04:06:02',1,0,1,402,0,5,2),(65,'drone lab for sale','drone-lab-for-sale',45,'julien',45,'julien','2010-03-25 17:44:53','2010-03-25 17:44:53',1,0,1,398,0,1,0);

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-- Dumping data for table `bb_usermeta`
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--
-- Table structure for table `bb_users`
--

CREATE TABLE `bb_users` (
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  `user_nicename` varchar(50) NOT NULL DEFAULT '',
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  `user_url` varchar(100) NOT NULL DEFAULT '',
  `user_registered` datetime NOT NULL DEFAULT '0000-00-00 00:00:00',
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  PRIMARY KEY (`ID`),
  UNIQUE KEY `user_login` (`user_login`),
  UNIQUE KEY `user_nicename` (`user_nicename`),
  KEY `user_registered` (`user_registered`)
) ENGINE=MyISAM AUTO_INCREMENT=56 DEFAULT CHARSET=utf8;

--
-- Dumping data for table `bb_users`
--

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