To get strange timbres out of a VL-1, simply place it on an AM radio tuned to an empty channel.

My VL-Tone did strange glitch melodies (much like Roland TB-303) by simply removing batteries for a fraction of a second. Installing an opener switch shouldn't be hard. The LCD foil cable can be pressed back into place by a foam rubber strip.

A strip of adhesive window insulation foam rubber can be used to squeeze the LCD foil cable back into place, which is sufficient to make the display work again when aligned properly. I read that they were originally heat-sealed in factory by pressing a hot metal bar with silicone rubber padding against the cable to melt the glue. The BONDMASTER MANUAL.pdf (from a Motorola pager repair machine) revealed the following parameters of different HSC foil cables. 

forces &amp; temperatures: 

Planar = 50..70 psi at 140..150°C 
Anisotropic = 50..80 psi at 150°C 
Monosotropic = 70..90 psi at 160°C 

"Planar" cables (pitch 0.3mm, oldest) are yellow-black. 
"Anisotropic" cables (pitch 0.29mm, cheapest) are green-white or black-white. 
"Monosotropic" cables (finest pitch 0.22mm) are yellowish, with thermoset adhesive. 

The cable needs to be pressed into place during heating and cooling cycle, which in total may take about 1:45 minutes (recommended factory default of that machine). Depending on material, the heat can be between 140 and 160°C. Too hot or too much force can melt it or cut through the leads, so try lowest heat first. The thermoset glue of "Monosotropic" (yellow) cables may be impossible to re-melt and so needs to be replaced. Older cables may need even lower temperatures, so due to the risk of damage (the margin between gluing and destruction is small; also liquid crystals degrade from long heat exposure) generally only try heat where the foam rubber strip method fails. A suitable heat source is an adjustable SMD soldering station with temperature display. With soldering iron use thin cardboard to spread the heat and rub quickly back and forward; with hot air watch out that hot air gun temperature often starts much hotter and needs to stabilize; set air flow lowest to avoid damage to surrounding parts. If you don't own one, try a hairdryer + plastic bar (e.g. broad cable tie) to rub and press on.